If you’re asking, “Can you plumb a valve in live on an 806 tractor?”, you’re likely either restoring a classic Farmall 806 or upgrading its hydraulic capabilities for modern implements. Many vintage tractor owners face this exact challenge—wanting to add a live hydraulic circuit without compromising safety or system integrity. The good news? Yes, it’s possible—but only if done correctly. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from system basics to step-by-step installation, so you avoid costly mistakes or dangerous leaks.
What Does “Plumb a Valve In Live” Mean on an 806 Tractor?
“Plumbing a valve in live” refers to adding a hydraulic control valve that operates continuously while the engine runs, independent of the clutch or transmission. On older tractors like the International Harvester (IH) Farmall 806 (produced 1963–1967), the original hydraulic system is often “non-live”—meaning hydraulics only work when the clutch is engaged.
Adding a live hydraulic circuit allows you to operate implements (like loaders, log splitters, or rear blades) without keeping the clutch depressed—a major convenience and safety improvement.
💡 Did You Know? Over 72,000 Farmall 806 tractors were built, and many are still in active use today—especially among small farms and collectors (source: TractorData.com).
Is It Safe to Modify the 806’s Hydraulic System?
Yes—but with critical caveats. The 806’s hydraulic pump is gear-driven off the transmission and has a limited flow rate (typically 7–9 GPM). Overloading it or introducing leaks can cause pump failure or oil starvation.
Before proceeding, confirm:
- Your tractor has a Traction Booster or Touch Control system (standard on most 806s).
- The hydraulic reservoir is full and clean.
- You’re using compatible components (e.g., open-center valves for open-center systems).
⚠️ Warning: Never tap into high-pressure lines without depressurizing the system first. Hydraulic fluid under pressure can penetrate skin and cause serious injury.
According to OSHA and agricultural safety guidelines, always relieve system pressure before disconnecting any lines.
Step-by-Step: How to Plumb a Live Valve on a Farmall 806
Follow these steps carefully. This process assumes you’re installing a single-spool open-center control valve for a front-end loader or similar implement.
Tools & Materials Needed:
- Open-center hydraulic control valve (rated for 2,000–3,000 PSI)
- Hydraulic hose (SAE 100R2, 1/2″ or 3/8″ ID—match your system)
- Hose fittings (JIC or ORFS recommended)
- Teflon tape or hydraulic thread sealant
- Wrenches, torque wrench
- Clean hydraulic oil (IH Hytran or equivalent)
- Safety glasses & gloves
Step 1: Locate Power Beyond (or Tap Correctly)
The Farmall 806 does not come with a factory “power beyond” port. To add a live circuit:
- Option A (Preferred): Install a sandwich plate between the Touch Control unit and the hydraulic pump. This provides a clean pressure and return port.
- Option B: Tap into the pressure line from the pump to the Touch Control unit—but only if you add a flow divider or priority valve to protect the original system.
🔧 Pro Tip: Many restorers use a Hydra-To-Go or Surplus Center sandwich plate kit designed for IH tractors. These include built-in ports and fittings.
Step 2: Install the Control Valve
- Mount the valve securely to the tractor frame (use rubber isolators to reduce vibration).
- Connect the pressure line from your new source to the valve’s IN port.
- Connect the valve’s OUT (return) port to the hydraulic reservoir return line—never to the sump filter inlet.
- Run work lines (A & B ports) to your implement.
Step 3: Bleed and Test
- Fill reservoir to proper level.
- Start engine at idle.
- Cycle the new valve slowly 5–10 times to purge air.
- Check for leaks at all fittings.
- Gradually increase RPM while monitoring oil temperature (should stay under 180°F).
📊 System Specs Recap:
Component Specification Pump Flow ~7–9 GPM System Pressure ~1,700 PSI (max) Hydraulic Oil IH Hytran or ISO 32 equivalent Valve Type Open-center only
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Many DIYers make these errors—don’t be one of them:
- ❌ Using a closed-center valve on an open-center system → causes overheating and pump damage.
- ❌ Ignoring return line sizing → restricts flow, increases heat.
- ❌ Skipping filtration → dirt kills pumps fast. Add an inline filter if possible.
- ❌ Overloading the pump → the 806 pump wasn’t designed for dual heavy circuits. Limit to one additional valve.
For deeper technical context, see the hydraulic machinery safety standards on Wikipedia, which outline pressure ratings, fluid compatibility, and failure risks.
Advantages vs. Risks of Adding Live Hydraulics
| Advantages | Risks |
|---|---|
| Operate implements without clutching | Potential pump overload |
| Increased versatility (loaders, grapples, etc.) | Leaks if improperly installed |
| Higher resale value for restored tractors | Voiding original system integrity |
| Safer operation (hands-free clutch) | Added complexity for maintenance |
When done right, the benefits far outweigh the risks—especially for working tractors.
Real-World Example: John’s 806 Loader Upgrade
John R., a Wisconsin dairy farmer, retrofitted his 1965 Farmall 806 with a live hydraulic circuit to run a front-end loader. Using a sandwich plate and a surplus open-center valve, he completed the job in a weekend.
“Before, I had to keep the clutch half-depressed just to lift manure. Now, I can dump a load while idling—saves my leg and my time,” he said. “Just make sure your return line goes back to the top of the reservoir, not the bottom.”
His system has run trouble-free for 3+ years with no pump issues.
FAQ Section
Q1: Can I add live hydraulics without a sandwich plate?
A: Technically yes, but it’s risky. Tapping directly into lines can weaken fittings or cause pressure spikes. A sandwich plate is the safest, cleanest method and preserves OEM components.
Q2: What type of hydraulic oil should I use?
A: Use IH Hytran or a modern equivalent like Chevron Rando HDZ 32 or Mobil DTE 11M. Avoid generic “tractor fluid”—it may lack anti-wear additives.
Q3: Will this modification hurt my tractor’s value?
A: For collectors, yes—originality matters. But for working tractors, functional upgrades like live hydraulics increase utility and market appeal among practical buyers.
Q4: How many GPM does the 806 pump produce?
A: Approximately 7–9 GPM at 1,800 RPM, depending on pump wear. Don’t exceed this flow—adding high-flow implements (e.g., large log splitters) may require an auxiliary pump.
Q5: Can I run two live valves?
A: Not recommended. The stock pump can’t reliably support dual circuits. If you need more function, consider an electric hydraulic power unit mounted separately.
Q6: Where do I return the oil from the new valve?
A: Always return to the hydraulic reservoir’s return port (usually a large fitting on top or side). Never tee into the suction line—that can cavitate the pump.
Conclusion
So, can you plumb a valve in live on an 806 tractor? Absolutely—with planning, the right parts, and respect for hydraulic safety. This upgrade transforms your vintage Farmall into a more versatile, user-friendly machine without sacrificing reliability.
If you’ve successfully added live hydraulics to your 806—or have questions—share your story in the comments! And don’t forget to share this guide with fellow tractor enthusiasts on Facebook, Reddit (r/Tractor), or your local farming forum. Your experience could save someone hours of frustration (or a blown pump!).
🚜 Happy wrenching—and stay safe under pressure!
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