Hard Plumbing a 2014 Keystone Sprinter BH311 to the Sewer

If you’re a full-time RVer or frequently park your 2014 Keystone Sprinter BH311 in one location for extended periods, you’ve probably wondered about ditching the messy, temporary sewer hose for a cleaner, more reliable solution. Hard plumbing a 2014 Keystone Sprinter BH311 to the sewer offers convenience, hygiene, and peace of mind—but it requires careful planning and execution. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to make the switch safely and effectively.

Why Consider Hard Plumbing Your Keystone Sprinter BH311?

Many RV owners choose hard plumbing when they transition from weekend camping to long-term or permanent living. According to the RV Industry Association, over 11 million U.S. households use an RV as their primary residence—and that number is growing. For these users, temporary sewer hoses become impractical due to:

• Odor leakage from loose fittings
• Freezing risks in colder climates
• Trip hazards and unsightly setups
• Wear and tear on standard RV sewer components

Hard plumbing eliminates these issues by creating a sealed, permanent connection between your RV’s waste outlets and the septic or municipal sewer system.

💡 Pro Tip: Always check local zoning and health codes before installing a permanent sewer line—some jurisdictions require permits or licensed plumbers.*

What Does “Hard Plumbing” Actually Mean?

In RV terms, hard plumbing refers to replacing flexible sewer hoses with rigid PVC or ABS piping that connects directly from your RV’s black and gray water outlets to a fixed sewer inlet or septic tank.

Unlike traditional hookups that rely on gravity-fed hoses, a hard-plumbed system uses:

• Schedule 40 PVC pipes (most common)
• Sanitary tees and vent stacks
• P-traps to prevent sewer gases from entering the RV
• Cleanouts for maintenance access

This setup mimics residential plumbing but must account for your RV’s potential future mobility—even if you don’t plan to move it soon.

Step-by-Step Guide: Hard Plumbing Your 2014 Keystone Sprinter BH311

Before starting, gather these materials:

• 3″ and 1.5″ PVC pipes (length depends on distance to sewer inlet)
• PVC primer and cement
• Sanitary T-fittings
• P-traps (one for black, one for gray water)
• Pipe supports or hangers
• Level, measuring tape, hacksaw or PVC cutter
• Rubber couplings (for vibration absorption)

Step 1: Locate Your RV’s Waste Outlets

The 2014 Keystone Sprinter BH311 typically has dual waste valves located under the rear slide-out or near the driver’s side rear corner. Confirm both black (toilet) and gray (sink/shower) lines are accessible and labeled.

Step 2: Measure Distance to Sewer Inlet

Use a tape measure to determine the straight-line distance from each outlet to your permanent sewer connection point. Add 6–12 inches for slope and fittings.

📏 Ideal Slope: Maintain a ¼-inch drop per foot of pipe run to ensure proper drainage. For example, a 10-foot run needs at least 2.5 inches of vertical drop.*

Step 3: Install P-Traps Close to the RV

Mount P-traps within 18 inches of each waste outlet. This prevents sewer gases from backing up into your RV—a critical health and safety step often overlooked by DIYers.

Step 4: Run Rigid PVC Lines with Proper Venting

Connect 3″ PVC from the black water P-trap and 1.5″ from the gray water line. Use vent stacks (minimum 1.5″ diameter) that extend above roof level or connect to your existing RV roof vent system. Venting is required by most plumbing codes to equalize pressure and avoid siphoning.

For reference, the International Residential Code (IRC) outlines venting standards that many municipalities adopt—see Wikipedia’s overview of plumbing vents for foundational principles.

Step 5: Add Cleanouts and Supports

Install cleanout plugs every 20 feet (or at directional changes) for easy snaking. Secure pipes every 3–4 feet with hangers to prevent sagging, which can cause clogs.

Step 6: Test for Leaks and Flow

Fill your sinks and flush toilets multiple times. Check all joints with a flashlight for drips. Ensure water flows freely without gurgling (a sign of poor venting).

Hard Plumbing vs. Standard Sewer Hose: Pros & Cons

⚠️ Warning: Never hard-plumb without a way to disconnect! Use rubber Fernco couplings or slip-joint fittings so you can detach the RV if needed.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Skipping the P-trap – Leads to dangerous methane and hydrogen sulfide exposure.
2. Incorrect slope – Causes standing water and blockages.
3. No cleanouts – Makes unclogging nearly impossible without cutting pipes.
4. Ignoring local codes – Could result in fines or forced removal.

As RV technician Mark Delaney (RV Doctor Network) notes:

“I’ve seen more hard-plumbed systems fail from poor venting than anything else. If your sink gurgles when you flush, your vent isn’t working.”

Can You Still Move Your RV After Hard Plumbing?

Yes—but only if designed properly. Use flexible rubber couplings (like Fernco Qwik Cap) at the RV end so you can quickly disconnect. Store a short sewer hose onboard for emergencies. Many full-timers keep their RV hitched to a truck year-round just in case.

FAQ Section

Q1: Is hard plumbing legal for my RV?

A: It depends on your location. Most counties allow it for long-term or permanent RV setups, but always consult your local health department or building inspector first. Some require backflow prevention devices.

Q2: Do I need separate lines for black and gray water?

A: Yes. Mixing them isn’t illegal everywhere, but it’s strongly discouraged. Gray water can be reused for irrigation in some areas, while black water must go to a septic or sewer system.

Q3: How much does it cost to hard plumb a Keystone Sprinter BH311?

A: DIY costs range from $150 to $500, depending on pipe length and fittings. Hiring a plumber could cost $800–$1,500.

Q4: Will hard plumbing void my RV warranty?

A: Possibly—if done incorrectly or without manufacturer approval. Since your 2014 model is over 10 years old, warranty concerns are minimal, but document your work just in case.

Q5: Can I install it myself?

A: If you’re comfortable with basic plumbing (cutting, gluing PVC, understanding slope), yes. Watch tutorial videos from reputable sources like RV Geeks or Lazy Daze Living.

Q6: What if I need to winterize later?

A: Drain all lines completely and blow them out with compressed air (30–40 PSI). Add non-toxic RV antifreeze through the highest fixture until it exits the sewer connection.

Conclusion

Hard plumbing a 2014 Keystone Sprinter BH311 to the sewer transforms your RV experience—offering reliability, cleanliness, and a more “home-like” setup. While it requires upfront effort and attention to code compliance, the long-term benefits far outweigh the hassle of wrestling with stinky hoses every week.

If you’ve completed this project or are planning to, share your story on Facebook or Reddit’s r/RVLife community—your insights could help another RVer avoid costly mistakes! And don’t forget to pin this guide for future reference.

🛠️ Your RV, your rules—but always prioritize safety, sanitation, and smart design.