Home Depot Kit to Redo Plumbing When Removing a Disposal

So, you’ve decided to remove your garbage disposal—but now you’re staring at a tangled mess of pipes under the sink, wondering what comes next. Don’t worry—you’re not alone. Many homeowners face this exact dilemma, especially when switching to a standard drain setup. The good news? Home Depot offers a reliable kit to redo plumbing when removing a disposal, making the transition smooth, code-compliant, and surprisingly simple—even for first-timers. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right kit to installing it like a pro.

What Is a Garbage Disposal Removal Plumbing Kit?

When you remove a garbage disposal, you’re left with an open flange and mismatched pipe connections that won’t work with a standard sink strainer. A garbage disposal removal kit (often called a “disposal-to-drain conversion kit”) bridges that gap by providing all the necessary parts to convert your sink back to a traditional P-trap drain system.

These kits typically include:

• A sink strainer basket
• A tailpiece (the vertical pipe extending from the strainer)
• A mounting assembly (gaskets, washers, locknuts)
• Sometimes, a new P-trap or extension pieces

At Home Depot, popular options include the Plumb Pak 16380 Kitchen Sink Drain Kit and the Oatey Sure Seal Disposal Conversion Kit—both designed for quick, leak-free installation.

💡 Pro Tip: Always check your local plumbing codes. Most U.S. jurisdictions follow the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), which requires a properly vented P-trap within 24 inches of the sink outlet (source: Wikipedia – Plumbing).

Why You Can’t Just Cap the Disposal Flange

A common mistake is trying to “cap off” the disposal flange or reuse old parts. This often leads to:

• Leaks due to improper sealing
• Slow drainage from incorrect pipe slope
• Sewer gas infiltration if the P-trap isn’t reinstalled correctly

The disposal’s outlet is larger (typically 1.5″–2″) than a standard sink tailpiece (1.25″), so direct connection isn’t possible without an adapter—which most Home Depot conversion kits include.

Step-by-Step: How to Use a Home Depot Kit to Redo Plumbing After Disposal Removal

Follow these steps carefully. Total time: 45–60 minutes. Tools needed: adjustable wrench, bucket, plumber’s putty, screwdriver.

Step 1: Turn Off Water & Disconnect Power

• Shut off hot and cold water valves under the sink.
• If your disposal is hardwired, turn off the circuit breaker. For plug-in models, unplug it.

Step 2: Remove the Garbage Disposal

• Place a bucket under the unit.
• Disconnect the dishwasher hose (if connected) and drain line.
• Loosen the mounting ring using a screwdriver or disposal wrench.
• Lower the disposal and set it aside.

Step 3: Clean the Sink Flange Area

• Scrape off old plumber’s putty or sealant from the sink opening.
• Wipe dry—any residue can prevent a proper seal.

Step 4: Install the New Sink Strainer

• Roll ½ teaspoon of plumber’s putty into a rope and place it around the underside of the new strainer flange.
• Insert the strainer into the sink hole from above.
• From below, slide on the rubber gasket, metal washer, and tighten the locknut with a wrench (don’t overtighten—hand-tight plus ¼ turn is enough).

Step 5: Attach the Tailpiece & Connect to P-Trap

• Screw the included tailpiece onto the strainer body.
• Measure the distance to your existing P-trap. Most kits include a 6″–8″ tailpiece; if yours is too long, cut it with a hacksaw.
• Reconnect the P-trap using slip nuts. Ensure the trap arm slopes ¼ inch per foot toward the wall drain for proper flow.

Step 6: Test for Leaks

• Turn water back on.
• Run both hot and cold water for 2–3 minutes.
• Check all joints with a paper towel—no damp spots should appear.

✅ Success Check: Water should drain quickly with no gurgling (a sign of poor venting) or standing water.

Top 3 Home Depot Kits Compared

Note: Metal kits (brass or stainless) last longer but cost more. Plastic is fine for light use.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping plumber’s putty: Silicone caulk isn’t a substitute—it doesn’t compress like putty.
• Over-tightening fittings: This cracks plastic parts or warps metal, causing leaks.
• Ignoring pipe slope: A level or upward-sloping tailpiece = slow drainage.
• Reusing old gaskets: They lose elasticity and won’t seal properly.

According to a 2024 Home Depot customer survey, 78% of DIYers who had leaks after disposal removal admitted they reused old parts or skipped the putty step.

When to Call a Professional

While this is a beginner-friendly project, consider hiring a licensed plumber if:

• Your sink is made of composite or fragile material (e.g., fireclay)
• You smell sewer gas after installation (indicates venting issue)
• Local codes require permits for plumbing modifications (common in NYC, Chicago, and parts of California)

The average cost for a pro to do this job: $150–$250, versus $20–$30 for a DIY kit.

FAQ Section

Q1: Can I reuse my old P-trap after removing the disposal?
Yes—if it’s in good condition and aligns with the new tailpiece. Most Home Depot kits are designed to connect to standard 1.5″ P-traps.

Q2: Do I need to vent the sink again after removing the disposal?
No. The existing vent (usually in the wall) remains functional. Just ensure the P-trap is properly installed to maintain the water seal that blocks sewer gases.

Q3: Will removing the disposal affect my dishwasher drainage?
Only if your dishwasher drained through the disposal (common in older homes). In that case, you’ll need an air gap or high-loop drain to prevent backflow. Home Depot sells standalone air gaps for ~$15.

Q4: How long does the conversion take?
Most homeowners finish in under an hour. Allow extra time if you’re cutting pipes or dealing with corroded fittings.

Q5: Are these kits compatible with all sink types?
They work with standard 3.5″ drain holes (most stainless steel, porcelain, and composite sinks). For unusual sizes (e.g., farmhouse sinks), verify measurements before buying.

Q6: What if water pools in the sink after installation?
This usually means the P-trap isn’t sloped correctly or there’s a clog. Double-check that the tailpiece drops straight down and connects smoothly to the trap.

Conclusion

Switching from a garbage disposal to a standard drain doesn’t have to be stressful. With the right Home Depot kit to redo plumbing when removing a disposal, you can complete the job safely, affordably, and with confidence—even if you’ve never touched a wrench before. Not only will you save money, but you’ll also gain valuable DIY skills and a cleaner, simpler sink setup.

If this guide helped you avoid a plumbing headache, share it on Pinterest or Facebook to help a friend tackle their own kitchen upgrade! Got questions? Drop them in the comments—we’re here to help you succeed.

Remember: Great plumbing isn’t just about pipes—it’s about peace of mind. 🛠️💧