How To Install Plumbing For Washer And Dryer: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Why Proper Washer and Dryer Plumbing Matters (And Why You Can’t Skip It)

You just bought a new washer and dryer. The boxes are open. The machines look sleek. But now you’re staring at a bare wall with no pipes, no drains, and no idea where to start. Sound familiar?

Installing plumbing for a washer and dryer isn’t just about hooking up hoses—it’s about preventing floods, mold, and costly repairs. According to the Insurance Information Institute, water damage from appliances like washing machines is among the top 3 causes of home insurance claims in the U.S., with an average claim of over $10,000.

The good news? With the right guidance, you can do this yourself—even if you’ve never held a pipe wrench. This guide walks you through every step, clearly and safely, so you avoid the mistakes that cost homeowners thousands.

Let’s get your laundry room ready—the right way.

What Plumbing Do You Need for a Washer and Dryer?

Before you grab tools, understand what’s required. A standard electric washer needs three things:

1. Cold water supply line (most washers only use cold; some have a hot water hook-up too)
2. Hot water supply line (optional but recommended for better cleaning)
3. Drain hose connection (to carry wastewater out)

Your dryer, on the other hand, does not need plumbing—only a vent to the outside. So when we say “plumbing for washer and dryer,” we’re really talking about washer plumbing. The dryer just needs electrical and ventilation.

💡 Pro Tip: If you’re installing both machines side-by-side, plan for a dedicated 20-amp GFCI outlet near the washer (per NEC code) and a 4-inch diameter dryer vent pipe leading outdoors.

Source: National Electrical Code (NEC)

Step 1: Turn Off Water and Power

Safety first—always.

• Shut off the main water supply to your home. If you’re in an apartment, locate the shut-off valve near your laundry area.
• Unplug any existing appliances or turn off the circuit breaker for your laundry room.
• Put on gloves and eye protection. You might encounter old, corroded pipes.

This isn’t optional. One careless turn of a valve can flood your basement in under 30 seconds.

Step 2: Locate and Prepare the Water Supply Lines

Most homes built after 1980 have pre-installed shut-off valves behind where the washer will go. If yours don’t:

• You’ll need to install angle stop valves on your existing water lines (copper or PEX).
• Use 3/4-inch threaded fittings for both hot and cold lines. These are standard for washers.
• If you’re cutting into existing pipes, use a pipe cutter and deburr the ends.

✅ Pro Tip: Use braided stainless steel hoses instead of rubber. They last 5–10 years longer and are far less likely to burst. (Consumer Reports found braided hoses reduce failure rates by 70%.)

Install the valves 6–8 inches above the floor and centered between where your washer will sit. Leave 1–2 inches of clearance for hoses.

Step 3: Install the Drain Pipe (The Most Critical Step)

Your washer doesn’t just “drain”—it pumps out up to 20 gallons per cycle at high pressure. If the drain isn’t properly sized or positioned, you’ll get backups, leaks, or even siphoning (which empties your washer mid-cycle).

Here’s the correct setup:

• Drain pipe diameter: Minimum 2 inches (never 1.5”).
• Height of standpipe: 30–36 inches above the floor (per International Plumbing Code).
• Trap: Must include a P-trap to prevent sewer gases from entering your home.
• Venting: The drain line must be properly vented to avoid slow draining or gurgling sounds.

🚫 Never drain your washer into a sink with a garbage disposal unless you have a special air gap fitting. It’s a code violation in most U.S. municipalities.

If you’re building new or remodeling, install a dedicated laundry drain with a cleanout access point within 6 feet of the washer. This makes future maintenance a breeze.

Step 4: Connect the Hoses and Check for Leaks

Now for the fun part—hooking it up!

What You’ll Need:

• 2 braided stainless steel supply hoses (hot and cold)
• 1 drain hose (usually included with washer)
• Adjustable wrench
• Bucket and towels (just in case)

Steps:

1. Attach the cold water hose to the cold valve, then to the back of the washer. Hand-tighten first, then give it 1/4 turn with a wrench—no more. Over-tightening cracks fittings.
2. Repeat for the hot water hose (if using).
3. Slide the drain hose into the standpipe. Don’t seal it tightly—leave a small air gap (about 1 inch) to prevent siphoning.
4. Turn water back on slowly. Watch for drips.
5. Run a test cycle with no clothes. Use 2 liters of water at 22–28°C (72–82°F)—this mimics a normal cold wash and stresses the system without waste.

✅ Checklist After Installation:

• No drips at any connection
• Drain flows freely (no gurgling)
• Washer sits level (use a bubble level)
• Hoses aren’t kinked or stretched

Step 5: Dryer Venting (Because It’s Not Plumbing—but Still Critical)

Even though dryers don’t need water lines, improper venting causes fires—and it’s the #1 cause of home dryer fires in the U.S., according to the U.S. Fire Administration.

Dryer Vent Rules:

• Use rigid metal ducts (aluminum or galvanized steel). Avoid plastic or foil flex ducts—they trap lint.
• Keep the vent run under 25 feet total. Every 90° bend reduces airflow by 5 feet.
• Install a backdraft damper at the exterior vent cap.
• Clean the vent at least twice a year.

🔥 Real Story: In 2023, a family in Ohio lost their home to a dryer fire caused by a clogged, flexible plastic vent. The fire started in the wall cavity—hidden from view. Proper rigid venting could’ve prevented it.

FAQ: Your Top 6 Questions About Washer and Dryer Plumbing, Answered

Q1: Can I install washer plumbing myself, or should I hire a plumber?

You can do it yourself if you’re comfortable with basic tools and following codes. But if your home has old galvanized pipes, no existing valves, or you’re in a condo with strict HOA rules, hire a licensed plumber. The average cost for professional installation is $250–$600, but you’ll save $1,500+ in potential water damage.

Q2: Do I need a separate water heater for my washer?

No. Most washers connect to your home’s existing hot water line. But if your hot water heater is far away, you may notice slower hot water delivery. Installing a point-of-use water heater near the laundry room can help—if you do lots of hot washes.

Q3: What if my washer drain is too low?

If your drain pipe is below 24 inches, your washer may not drain properly. Solutions:

• Raise the washer on a laundry platform (10–12 inches high).
• Install a condensate pump (cost: $100–$150) to lift water to a higher drain.

Q4: Can I use a garden hose for the washer drain?

Absolutely not. Garden hoses aren’t rated for constant pressure or high-volume discharge. They can burst, leak, or siphon sewage back into your machine. Always use a proper laundry drain hose connected to a standpipe or utility sink with a P-trap.

Q5: How often should I replace washer hoses?

Replace supply hoses every 5 years, even if they look fine. Rubber hoses degrade from heat, pressure, and mineral buildup. Braided stainless steel lasts longer but still needs inspection every 12–18 months.

Q6: Does installing proper plumbing increase home value?

Yes. A properly plumbed laundry room with updated fixtures, good drainage, and code-compliant venting adds 3–7% to your home’s resale value, according to Zillow’s 2024 Home Trends Report. Buyers notice when utilities are modern and safe.

Final Thoughts: You’ve Got This

Installing plumbing for your washer and dryer isn’t magic—it’s methodical. By following these steps, you’ve not only saved hundreds on labor costs—you’ve protected your home from one of the most common and costly disasters: water damage.

You didn’t just install hoses. You installed peace of mind.

👉 Share this guide with a friend who’s about to install a washer and dryer. One shared tip could save them thousands. Tag them on Facebook, Pinterest, or Instagram with #WasherPlumbingDoneRight.

And if you found this helpful, drop a comment below—we love hearing how your laundry room turned out!