Why Installing Rough Plumbing Under a Slab Matters (And Why Most People Get It Wrong)
You’re building a new home, adding an extension, or renovating your basement — and suddenly you’re faced with a big question: How to install rough plumbing under a slab?
If you’ve ever seen a cracked slab, a flooded bathroom, or a plumber charging $800 to fix a leaky pipe buried under concrete, you know how critical this step is. Poorly installed rough plumbing under a slab isn’t just inconvenient — it’s expensive, dangerous, and often requires tearing up your entire floor.
The good news? With the right planning, tools, and knowledge, you can do it right the first time — even if you’re not a licensed plumber. This guide walks you through every step, backed by industry standards, real-world case studies, and expert advice. Let’s make sure your slab doesn’t become a nightmare.
What Is “Rough Plumbing” — And Why Does It Need to Go Under the Slab?
Before we dive into installation, let’s clarify what “rough plumbing” actually means.
Rough plumbing refers to the initial installation of pipes, drains, vents, and supply lines before walls, floors, or finishes are installed. Think of it as the skeleton of your home’s water system.
In slab-on-grade construction — which makes up over 60% of new single-family homes in the U.S. (U.S. Census Bureau, 2023) — the foundation is a single layer of concrete poured directly on the ground. That means all plumbing must be installed before the slab is poured. Once the concrete sets, you can’t just dig a hole and run a new pipe.
“If you miss the window to install rough plumbing under a slab, your options become extremely limited — and expensive. Most homeowners end up paying $10,000–$25,000 to jackhammer the slab and re-route pipes.”
— Mike Reynolds, Master Plumber & Founder of PlumbSmart Solutions, 18+ years in residential construction.
This is why getting it right the first time isn’t optional — it’s essential.

Step-by-Step: How To Install Rough Plumbing Under A Slab (2025 Code-Compliant Method)
Follow these 7 proven steps to install rough plumbing under a slab safely, efficiently, and to code.
Step 1: Plan Your Layout — Know Where Everything Goes
Before you buy a single pipe, map out your entire plumbing system:
- Location of kitchen, bathrooms, laundry, and outdoor spigots
- Drainage slope (minimum 1/4 inch per foot for waste lines)
- Vent pipe routing (must extend above roofline)
- Distance from septic tank or municipal sewer line
Use graph paper or free software like SketchUp Free to sketch your layout. Label all fixture locations (toilet, sink, shower, etc.) and pipe sizes.
✅ Pro Tip: Always run a cleanout access point every 50 feet on main drain lines. This lets plumbers snake clogs without breaking the slab.
Step 2: Choose the Right Pipe Materials (And Avoid These Mistakes)
Not all pipes are created equal. Here’s what professionals use under slabs in 2025:
| PVC (Schedule 40) | Cheap, easy to cut, corrosion-resistant | Brittle under heavy load, can crack if improperly supported | Drain, waste, vent (DWV) lines |
| HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene) | Flexible, freeze-resistant, no joints under slab | Requires heat fusion, not allowed for supply lines in some states | Main sewer lines, long runs |
| CPVC | Good for hot water, fits standard fittings | Not rated for underground use unless specially listed | Avoid under slab — use only above grade |
| Copper | Durable, long-lasting | Expensive, vulnerable to acidic soil, prone to pinhole leaks | ❌ Never use under slab |
Expert Insight:
“Copper under slabs is a relic of the 1980s. Modern building codes (IPC and UPC) strongly discourage it due to soil corrosion risks. PVC and HDPE are now the standard.”
— International Plumbing Code (IPC) 2021, Section 705.2
Step 3: Excavate the Trench Properly (Depth & Slope Matter)
- Dig a trench at least 18–24 inches deep below the proposed slab level.
- Slope waste lines at ¼ inch per foot toward the main sewer or septic. Use a laser level or spirit level + string line to check.
- Compact the soil base with a hand tamper. Add 2–3 inches of compacted gravel for drainage and support.
⚠️ Critical Mistake: Never lay pipe directly on undisturbed soil. Soil shifts over time — and that means cracked pipes.
Step 4: Install Pipes with Proper Supports & Seals
- Use pipe saddles or sand bedding every 4–5 feet to support PVC/HDPE.
- Glue all PVC joints with purple primer and solvent cement. Let cure 15–30 minutes before pressure testing.
- No threaded connections under slab — they leak. Use only glued or fused joints.
- Install weep holes in drain lines near low points to prevent airlocks.
Pro Tip: Wrap all supply lines (if using PEX) with foam pipe insulation to prevent condensation and freezing in cold climates.
Step 5: Pressure Test & Smoke Test Before Pouring
This is where most DIYers skip — and regret it.
- Pressure Test (for water lines): Cap all ends, pressurize to 60 PSI with an air compressor. Hold for 15 minutes. No drop = passed.
- Smoke Test (for drain lines): Seal vents, pump non-toxic smoke into the system. If smoke escapes, you have a leak.
🔍 Real Case Study: In 2023, a homeowner in Austin, TX skipped the smoke test. Three months after moving in, his bathroom flooded. The slab had to be jackhammered — costing $14,500. He could’ve tested for $50.
Step 6: Install Cleanouts and Access Points
- Place a 4-inch cleanout near the main stack, just before it exits the slab.
- Add access panels in utility rooms or closets if possible — even if not required by code.
- Label all pipes with waterproof tags: “Kitchen Sink Drain,” “Toilet Supply,” etc.
📌 Code Reference: IPC Section 707.1 requires accessible cleanouts for all main drain lines. Don’t bury them.
Step 7: Pour the Slab — And Protect Your Work
- Lay down polyethylene sheeting (6-mil) over pipes to act as a moisture barrier.
- Use sand or fine gravel as a buffer layer between pipes and concrete.
- Pour concrete slowly — avoid dropping heavy tools or buckets directly on pipes.
- Let the slab cure for at least 7 days before installing fixtures.
💡 Bonus: Consider installing radiant heating tubing at the same time if you’re planning heated floors. It’s far easier to run both systems before the pour.
Rough Plumbing Under Slab: Pros vs. Cons
| ✅ Lower overall cost (no raised foundation) | ❌ Repairs are expensive and disruptive |
| ✅ Less vulnerable to pests and moisture (vs. crawl spaces) | ❌ No access for future upgrades without breaking concrete |
| ✅ Faster construction timeline | ❌ Must be perfect on first try — no second chances |
| ✅ Energy efficient (thermal mass of slab retains heat) | ❌ Requires precise planning and code knowledge |
Bottom Line: If you’re building new, rough plumbing under a slab is cost-effective and efficient — if done right. If you’re retrofitting, consider alternatives like a raised foundation or trenching from the outside.
FAQ: Your Top 6 Questions About Rough Plumbing Under a Slab
Q1: Can I install plumbing under a slab myself?
Yes — if you’re comfortable with basic tools, reading codes, and following safety steps. Most U.S. states allow homeowners to pull permits and do their own plumbing (check your local building department). However, final inspections are mandatory. If you’re unsure, hire a licensed plumber for consultation — it’s cheaper than fixing a mistake.
Q2: How deep should plumbing be under a slab?
Plumbing must be installed at least 18 inches below the finished slab surface. In freezing climates (like Minnesota or Colorado), go deeper — 36–48 inches — to avoid frost heave. Always check your local building code; some areas require deeper trenches.
Q3: What type of pipe is best for rough plumbing under a slab?
PVC (Schedule 40) for drain/waste/vent lines and PEX for water supply lines are the gold standard. Avoid copper and CPVC. HDPE is excellent for main sewer lines but requires special fusion tools. Learn more about pipe materials on Wikipedia .
Q4: Do I need a permit to install rough plumbing under a slab?
Yes, absolutely. In every U.S. state, plumbing under a slab requires a building permit and inspection. Skipping this risks:
- Fines up to $5,000
- Being forced to tear out your slab
- Inability to sell your home (no certificate of occupancy)
Q5: How long does rough plumbing under a slab take to install?
For a typical 2-bathroom, 1-kitchen home:
- Planning & layout: 1–2 days
- Trenching & pipe installation: 1–2 days
- Testing & prep for pour: 1 day
Total: 3–5 days with a helper. Professionals can do it in 1–2 days.
Q6: What happens if I find a leak after the slab is poured?
You have three options:
- Jackhammer and replace — most common, $8,000–$20,000
- Tunnel from outside — if the leak is near the foundation wall, dig a trench from the exterior and reroute (cost: $3,000–$7,000)
- Pipe lining — inject epoxy resin into existing pipes to seal leaks (cost: $4,000–$8,000, but not always code-compliant)
Prevention is cheaper than repair. Always test before pouring.
Final Thoughts: Do It Right, Save Thousands
Installing rough plumbing under a slab isn’t just about running pipes — it’s about building a foundation for your home’s comfort, safety, and value. Get it wrong, and you’ll be paying for it for decades. Get it right, and your plumbing will last 50+ years with zero issues.
This guide gave you the exact steps, materials, and code references professionals use. You don’t need to be an expert — just careful, organized, and detail-oriented.
👉 Ready to take action?
- Print this guide.
- Sketch your layout today.
- Call your local building department for permit info.
If this helped you — please share it with a friend who’s building or renovating. One shared post could save someone $10,000.
💬 Got questions? Drop them in the comments below — we reply to every one.
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