How To Plumb A Livewell In A Boat: Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Why You Need a Properly Plumbed Livewell (And Why Most DIY Attempts Fail)

You’ve spent hours prepping your boat for the big fishing trip. Your rods are ready. Your tackle box is organized. But when you finally catch that prized bass or trout… it’s floating belly-up in the bucket. Frustrating, right?

You’re not alone. According to a 2023 survey by Saltwater Sportsman, nearly 62% of recreational anglers report losing fish due to poor livewell performance — often because of improper plumbing. A well-plumbed livewell isn’t just a luxury; it’s the difference between bringing home dinner… and bringing home memories.

That’s why learning how to plumb a livewell in a boat correctly matters. Whether you’re retrofitting an older boat or building from scratch, this guide walks you through every step — with real-world tips, common mistakes to avoid, and pro insights to keep your catch alive and thriving.

What Is a Livewell, and Why Does Plumbing Matter?

A livewell is a built-in tank (usually in the stern or transom) designed to hold live fish while you fish. But here’s the catch: a livewell without proper plumbing is just a fancy bucket.

Plumbing controls three critical factors:

• Water flow — bringing in fresh, oxygenated water
• Drainage — removing waste and stale water
• Aeration — adding oxygen to keep fish alive

Without these, water turns stagnant, temperature spikes, and dissolved oxygen drops — killing fish within minutes. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) notes that fish survival rates drop by up to 80% when dissolved oxygen falls below 5 mg/L — a common issue in poorly plumbed livewells.

“Most anglers focus on the tank size, but the plumbing is what keeps fish alive,” says Captain Mike Reynolds, a marine technician with 18 years of experience. “A 30-gallon tank with bad plumbing is worse than a 10-gallon one with perfect flow.”

Step-by-Step: How To Plumb A Livewell In A Boat (Beginner-Friendly)

Let’s get your livewell working like a pro’s. We’ll break this into 6 clear, actionable steps.

Step 1: Choose the Right Livewell Type & Location

Before you touch a hose, decide:

• Integrated (built-in): Best for new boats or major rebuilds.
• Portable (drop-in): Easier for retrofits, but less efficient.

Ideal location: Amidships or near the transom — away from engine heat and direct sunlight. Avoid placing it over fuel tanks or electrical components.

Pro Tip: Use a 10–15 gallon capacity per fish as a rule of thumb. For bass tournaments, most pros use 20–30 gallon tanks.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools & Materials

You’ll need:

• 1” or 1.25” PVC or marine-grade flexible hose (PVC is rigid; flexible is easier for bends)
• 12V livewell pump (look for 500–1000 GPH output — e.g., Rule 500 or Attwood)
• Air pump + airline tubing (for aeration — optional but highly recommended)
• Hose clamps (stainless steel, 2 per connection)
• Drill + hole saw (for thru-hull fittings)
• Silicone marine sealant
• Waterproof electrical tape
• Float switch (optional, for auto-fill)

Avoid: Garden hoses or non-marine PVC. Saltwater and UV exposure will crack them in weeks.

Step 3: Install the Intake & Drain (The Core of Plumbing)

This is where most DIYers mess up.

Intake (Water In):

• Drill a hole below the waterline (at least 4” below the waterline when boat is loaded).
• Install a thru-hull fitting with a strainer (to block debris).
• Connect a hose from the strainer to the inlet port of your livewell pump.

Drain (Water Out):

• Drill a second hole above the waterline, near the top of the livewell.
• Install a gravity drain or manual valve (e.g., Jabsco manual bilge valve).
• Route the hose to exit the hull — never let it drain into the bilge. That’s a safety hazard.

⚠️ Critical Rule: Intake and drain must be on opposite sides of the livewell. This creates cross-flow — preventing dead zones where water doesn’t circulate.

Step 4: Connect the Pump & Power It Correctly

• Mount the pump securely near the livewell (use vibration-dampening mounts).
• Connect the pump’s outlet hose to the top of the livewell. Water should enter from above to minimize splashing.
• Wire the pump to a 12V switch on your dashboard — not directly to the battery. Use a 10-amp fuse.
• Test the pump: Run it for 2 minutes. Water should flow smoothly, no gurgling or airlocks.

Pro Tip: Use a pulse pump (like the Attwood 7700) if you’re fishing in choppy water. It cycles on/off to avoid overfilling.

Step 5: Add Aeration — The Secret Weapon for Fish Survival

Even with good flow, oxygen depletes fast. Add an air pump:

• Mount a small 12V air pump (e.g., MarineAir 100) under the console.
• Run airline tubing down into the livewell.
• Attach an air stone or diffuser near the bottom.
• Set it to run continuously while fishing.

Studies from the University of Florida Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences show that livewells with aeration improve fish survival by up to 90% compared to non-aerated tanks.

Real-world result: Tournament angler Lisa Chen went from losing 40% of her catch to 95% survival after adding a simple air stone. “It’s the cheapest upgrade I ever made,” she told Bassmaster.

Step 6: Seal, Test, and Fine-Tune

• Apply marine-grade silicone around all thru-hull fittings. Let dry 24 hours.
• Fill the livewell with freshwater (not saltwater unless you’re in saltwater zones).
• Run the pump for 15 minutes. Check for leaks under the boat.
• Adjust flow: You want 2–3 complete water changes per hour. Too fast = fish stressed. Too slow = oxygen crash.

Ideal water temp: 22–28°C (72–82°F). Use a waterproof thermometer. If it’s hotter than 30°C, add a frozen water bottle wrapped in a towel — it cools without shocking fish.

Livewell Plumbing: Pro vs. Amateur Setup

Source: Bassmaster Tournament Angler Survey, 2024

Common Mistakes to Avoid (And How to Fix Them)

1. Using a bilge pump as a livewell pump
   → Bilge pumps move water fast but don’t aerate. Use a dedicated livewell pump.
2. Draining into the bilge
   → This creates odor, corrosion, and violates USCG safety codes. Always drain overboard.
3. No overflow protection
   → Install a 1.5” overflow tube near the top. Prevents flooding if the pump fails.
4. Plumbing in hot engine compartment
   → Heat kills oxygen. Route hoses away from exhaust manifolds.
5. Forgetting to prime the pump
   → Always fill the hose with water before turning on the pump. Airlocks break them.

FAQ: Your Top Questions About Livewell Plumbing, Answered

Q1: Can I use a garden hose to plumb a livewell?

A: Absolutely not. Garden hoses are not UV-resistant, degrade in saltwater, and can leach chemicals toxic to fish. Always use marine-grade PVC or flexible hose rated for potable water.

Q2: How much water should my livewell hold?

A: Plan for 10–15 gallons per fish. For a 5-fish limit, aim for 50–75 gallons. Larger tanks (like 100+ gallons) are common in bass tournaments for extended holding.

Q3: Do I need a timer for the livewell pump?

A: Not mandatory, but highly recommended. Running the pump 24/7 wastes battery and can over-oxygenate. Use a timer switch (like the Blue Sea Systems 5023) to cycle it every 15–20 minutes.

Q4: Can I install a livewell in a small fishing kayak?

A: Yes! Use a portable livewell bucket with a small 12V pump and air stone. Many kayak anglers use 5-gallon buckets with thru-hull fittings drilled into the hull. Just keep the tank small and cool.

Q5: What’s the best way to clean a livewell after use?

A: Rinse with freshwater. Then scrub with 1 cup white vinegar + 1 gallon water. Let sit 1 hour, rinse again. Never use bleach — it leaves toxic residue. For odor, use a baking soda paste on stubborn stains.

Q6: Is it legal to drain livewell water into lakes or rivers?

A: No — in many states, it’s illegal to release water from one body into another. This spreads invasive species like zebra mussels. Always drain onto land or into a trash container. Check your state’s DNR rules — Wikipedia’s page on aquatic invasive species explains why this matters globally.

Final Thoughts: Your Livewell, Your Advantage

Learning how to plumb a livewell in a boat isn’t just about fixing a tank — it’s about respecting the fish, improving your catch rate, and becoming a smarter angler. With the right plumbing, you’re not just storing fish… you’re preserving life.

And the best part? You don’t need to be a marine engineer. With this guide, you’ve got everything you need: the right tools, the right steps, and the right mindset.

Ready to upgrade?
👉 Share this guide with your fishing buddies on Facebook or Reddit’s r/Fishing. One well-plumbed livewell can save a dozen fish — and maybe even win you a tournament.

And if you’ve got a livewell success story? Drop it in the comments below. We’d love to hear how you kept your catch alive.