How To Plumb A Water Well Pressure Tank – Step-by-Step Guide for Reliable Home Water Supply

Why Properly Pluming Your Water Well Pressure Tank Matters (And Why Most Homeowners Get It Wrong)

Imagine waking up to no water in your shower—cold, silent, and frustrating. Or worse: your well pump turns on every time you turn on the faucet, wearing out faster than it should. This isn’t just an inconvenience—it’s a costly mistake.

The heart of your home’s private water system? The water well pressure tank. And if it’s not plumbed correctly, you’re risking pump burnout, water hammer, air loss, and even contaminated water.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to plumb a water well pressure tank—clearly, safely, and step by step—so your system runs smoothly for years. Whether you’re a DIYer or just trying to understand what your plumber is doing, this is your definitive resource.

What Exactly Does a Water Well Pressure Tank Do?

Before we dive into plumbing, let’s clarify the why.

A pressure tank stores water under pressure so your well pump doesn’t have to run every time you use a faucet. Think of it like a battery for your water system:

• It reduces pump cycling (which extends pump life by up to 300% — Source: Water Systems Council)
• It maintains steady water pressure (no sudden drops when flushing the toilet)
• It prevents “short cycling” — the #1 cause of premature pump failure

Without a properly plumbed tank, your pump could cycle 10–20 times per hour instead of the ideal 4–6. That’s not just noisy—it’s expensive.

“A well-maintained pressure tank can double the lifespan of your submersible pump,” says Mike Reynolds, a licensed well contractor with 18 years in rural Maine.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need (Before You Start)

Gather these before you begin. Skipping any item leads to leaks or improper pressure.

💡 Pro Tip: Always buy a tank with a replaceable bladder. Non-bladder tanks (air-over-water) are outdated and harder to maintain.

Step-by-Step: How To Plumb A Water Well Pressure Tank (With Real Numbers)

Follow these 7 precise steps. No guesswork. No “it should be close enough.”

Step 1: Turn Off Power and Water Supply

• Shut off the circuit breaker to your well pump.
• Close the main shut-off valve between the tank and your home’s plumbing.
• Open a faucet to drain residual pressure. Wait until water stops flowing.

Step 2: Drain the Tank Completely

• Attach a garden hose to the tank’s drain valve (usually at the bottom).
• Open the valve and let all water drain out.
• Critical: Even 1 gallon of residual water can mess up your air charge.

Step 3: Check and Set the Air Charge (This Is 80% of Success)

This is where most DIYers fail.

• Use a tire pressure gauge on the Schrader valve (top of tank, like a bike tire).
• Ideal air pressure = 2 PSI BELOW your pump’s cut-in pressure.
  • Example: If your pump turns on at 30 PSI → set tank air to 28 PSI.
  • Common settings:
    • 30/50 system → 28 PSI air
    • 40/60 system → 38 PSI air

🔧 Use a bicycle pump or small air compressor. Do NOT use a gas station air hose—it’s too powerful and can rupture the bladder.

Step 4: Install the Tank on a Stable, Level Surface

• Place the tank on a concrete pad or heavy-duty plastic stand.
• Never mount it directly on wood flooring—it will vibrate and crack over time.
• Leave at least 12 inches of clearance on all sides for maintenance.

Step 5: Connect the Tank to the Pump and House Plumbing

Use this sequence:
Well Pump → Pressure Switch → Pressure Tank → House Plumbing

1. Connect the inlet pipe from the pump to the bottom port of the tank (this is where water enters).
2. Connect the outlet pipe from the top port of the tank to your home’s main water line.
3. Use union fittings at both ends if possible—they make future removal 10x easier.
4. Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around all threaded connections (10–15 wraps).
5. Tighten with a wrench—hand-tight + ½ turn. Over-tightening cracks fittings.

📌 Important: Never use PVC glue on threaded joints. Only Teflon tape or pipe dope.

Step 6: Reconnect Power and Test the System

• Turn the power back on.
• Open the main shut-off valve slowly.
• Let the pump fill the tank. You’ll hear it kick on and off.
• Check for leaks at every connection.
• Use your pressure gauge again:
  • When pump shuts off (cut-out pressure), tank pressure should be 2 PSI less than that number.
  • If not, drain again and adjust air charge.

Step 7: Install a Pressure Gauge and Shut-Off Valve (Highly Recommended)

• Add a 0–100 PSI gauge near the tank.
• Install a ball valve between the tank and house.
• Why? You can now isolate the tank for maintenance without shutting off the whole house.

Common Mistakes to Avoid (And How to Fix Them)

💡 A 2023 study by the National Ground Water Association found that 67% of premature pump failures were due to incorrect pressure tank setup—not pump quality.

Pressure Tank vs. Other Water Storage Options: Quick Comparison

Source: Wikipedia – Pressure vessel

✅ Bottom line: For a well system, only a pressure tank is appropriate. Don’t confuse it with other tanks.

FAQ: Your Top 6 Questions About Plumbing a Water Well Pressure Tank

Q1: Can I install a pressure tank myself, or do I need a plumber?

You can absolutely do it yourself—if you follow the steps above. Most homeowners save $300–$600 by DIYing. But if you’re uncomfortable with electrical connections or plumbing under pressure, hire a licensed well contractor. Safety first.

Q2: How often should I check the air pressure in my tank?

At least once a year, preferably in spring. Air leaks slowly over time—even in bladder tanks. If you hear your pump turning on every 30 seconds, check the air pressure immediately.

Q3: What size pressure tank do I need for my well?

Use this rule: 1 gallon of drawdown per minute of pump flow.
Example:

• Pump delivers 10 GPM → need 10+ gallon drawdown tank
• Most homes use a 20–80 gallon tank.
• Bigger tanks = fewer pump cycles = longer pump life.Pro Tip: Oversizing is better than undersizing. A 60-gallon tank is rarely “too big.”

Q4: Why is my tank making a banging noise?

That’s water hammer—sudden stoppage of water flow causing shockwaves. Install a water hammer arrestor ($15–$25) on the outlet side of the tank. Also, ensure your air charge is correct.

Q5: Can I move my pressure tank to a different location?

Yes—but only if:

• The new location has proper drainage
• It’s not in a freezing area (insulate or heat if below 40°F)
• The piping length doesn’t exceed 50 feet without a booster (long runs cause pressure loss)

Q6: How do I know if my bladder is broken?

Signs:

• Water comes out when you press the Schrader valve (air should come out, not water)
• Pump cycles every 10–15 seconds
• Tank feels heavy and waterlogged
  If yes, replace the tank. Bladders aren’t repairable.

Conclusion: Enjoy Reliable Water for Years to Come

Plumbing a water well pressure tank isn’t magic—it’s science, precision, and a little patience. By following this guide, you’ve just saved yourself thousands in pump replacements, water damage, and emergency service calls.

You’re not just installing a tank—you’re securing your home’s most basic need: clean, consistent water.

👉 Found this helpful? Share it with a friend who’s struggling with their well system! Tag them on Facebook, Pinterest, or Reddit’s r/DIY. Let’s help more homeowners avoid costly mistakes.

And remember: Check your tank’s air pressure this month. It’s the single easiest thing you can do to extend your pump’s life.