How to Rough In Bathroom Plumbing in Concrete Slab (Step-by-Step Guide)

Home » How to Rough In Bathroom Plumbing in Concrete Slab (Step-by-Step Guide)

Roughing in bathroom plumbing beneath a concrete slab can feel intimidating—especially if you’ve never done it before. One wrong measurement or misplaced pipe can lead to leaks, expensive repairs, or failed inspections. But don’t worry: with the right planning and execution, how to rough in bathroom plumbing in concrete slab becomes a manageable, even rewarding, part of your home build or remodel. This guide walks you through every critical step, backed by industry standards and real-world best practices.


Why Is Plumbing Rough-In Under Slab So Critical?

Before concrete is poured, all supply and drain lines must be precisely placed. Once the slab cures, accessing or adjusting pipes becomes nearly impossible without jackhammering—a costly and disruptive process. According to the International Residential Code (IRC), plumbing under slabs must meet strict slope, material, and venting requirements to prevent backups, corrosion, and health hazards.

💡 Pro Tip: The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) reports that over 60% of slab foundation plumbing issues stem from improper rough-in during initial construction.


What Tools & Materials Do You Need?

Gathering the right supplies upfront saves time and prevents mid-project delays. Here’s your essential checklist:

Tools:

  • Pipe cutter or hacksaw
  • Tape measure (25-ft minimum)
  • Laser level or string line
  • PVC/CPVC glue & primer
  • Drill with hole saw bits (for penetrations)
  • Shovel or trenching tool

Materials:

  • Drain-waste-vent (DWV) pipes: Typically 3″ or 4″ PVC for toilets, 2″ for showers/tubs, 1.5″ for sinks
  • Supply lines: PEX or copper (PEX is preferred for flexibility and freeze resistance)
  • Pipe supports: Rebar chairs or plastic saddles to hold pipes off the ground
  • Cleanouts: Required by code for future maintenance
  • Foam pipe insulation (optional but recommended in cold climates)

📌 Note: Always check local building codes—some municipalities require specific pipe types or inspection schedules.

How To Rough In Bathroom Plumbing In Concrete Slab

Step-by-Step: How to Rough In Bathroom Plumbing in Concrete Slab

Follow these 7 precise steps to ensure a code-compliant, leak-free installation.

1. Review the Bathroom Layout & Obtain Permits

Start with your architectural or plumbing plan. Confirm fixture locations (toilet, sink, shower) and verify distances from walls. Most toilets require a 12-inch rough-in from the finished wall to the center of the flange—but 10″ or 14″ options exist.
Action: Submit plans to your local building department and secure a plumbing permit. Skipping this risks fines or failed inspections.

2. Mark Pipe Locations on the Subgrade

Using spray paint or chalk, mark where each pipe will run. Include:

  • Toilet drain (3″ or 4″ PVC)
  • Shower/tub drain (2″ PVC)
  • Sink drain (1.5″ PVC)
  • Hot/cold supply lines (½” PEX)
  • Vent stack connection point

Ensure all drain lines slope ¼ inch per foot toward the main sewer line. Use a laser level for accuracy.

3. Dig Trenches to Proper Depth

Trench depth depends on your frost line and local code, but generally:

  • Drain lines: 18–24 inches below slab
  • Supply lines: 6–12 inches below slab (to avoid freezing and allow room for slab thickness)

Keep trenches narrow (just wide enough for pipes + 2″ clearance) to minimize concrete displacement.

4. Install Drain, Waste, and Vent (DWV) Pipes

  • Cut PVC pipes to length using a pipe cutter.
  • Dry-fit all joints first—never glue blindly.
  • Glue with PVC primer and cement; hold for 30 seconds.
  • Support pipes every 4 feet with rebar chairs to prevent shifting during pour.
  • Install a cleanout near the toilet drain (required by IRC P3005.2).

⚠️ Critical: Toilet flange must sit flush with the top of the finished slab—not buried! Use a temporary spacer or flange extension.

5. Run Supply Lines (PEX Recommended)

  • Use ½-inch PEX-A for hot/cold lines (more flexible, fewer fittings).
  • Run lines from the main manifold or water heater to each fixture.
  • Leave 12–18 inches of extra PEX coiled at each fixture location for future connections.
  • Secure with plastic clips every 32 inches.

🔗 For more on PEX vs. copper, see Wikipedia’s overview of plumbing materials .

6. Pressure Test & Inspection

Before concrete is poured:

  • Cap all open pipe ends.
  • Pressurize supply lines to 80 PSI for 2 hours (no drop = pass).
  • Fill DWV system with water for 15 minutes—no leaks allowed.
  • Schedule a rough-in inspection with your local authority. Do not pour concrete until approved!

7. Protect Pipes During Concrete Pour

  • Cover pipe ends with caps or tape to prevent concrete intrusion.
  • Alert the concrete crew about pipe locations—use stakes or flags.
  • Avoid heavy machinery directly over pipes to prevent crushing.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Incorrect toilet flange heightWax ring leaks, rocking toiletSet flange on temporary block matching slab thickness
Insufficient drain slopeSlow drainage, clogsUse laser level; verify ¼” per foot
No cleanoutsImpossible to snake clogsInstall cleanout within 5 ft of fixture
Skipping pressure testHidden leaks under slabAlways test—twice if needed

Should You DIY or Hire a Pro?

While ambitious DIYers can handle this, consider hiring a licensed plumber if:

  • You’re unfamiliar with local codes
  • The project involves multiple bathrooms
  • Your area has strict frost-depth requirements

According to HomeAdvisor, the average cost to rough-in bathroom plumbing under slab is $1,200–$3,500, but a mistake can cost $5,000+ in slab repairs.


FAQ Section

Q: How deep should plumbing be under a concrete slab?

A: Drain lines should be 18–24 inches deep, supply lines 6–12 inches. Depth varies by climate—consult local codes for frost line requirements.

Q: Can you move plumbing in a slab foundation later?

A: Technically yes, but it requires cutting the slab, rerouting pipes, and repouring concrete—costly and messy. That’s why accurate rough-in is crucial.

Q: What type of pipe is best for under-slab plumbing?

A: PVC for drains, PEX for supply lines. PEX resists corrosion and expands under freeze conditions, reducing burst risk.

Q: Do I need a vent for every fixture under a slab?

A: Yes—but vents can tie into a common stack. The IRC requires all fixtures to be vented within specific distances (e.g., sink within 5 ft of vent).

Q: How long does rough-in plumbing take before pouring concrete?

A: For one bathroom, 1–2 days for a skilled DIYer or pro. Always allow time for inspection scheduling.

Q: What if I forget to install a cleanout?

A: You’ll likely fail inspection. If concrete is already poured, you’ll need an above-slab cleanout or expensive slab cut—avoid this by planning ahead.


Conclusion

Mastering how to rough in bathroom plumbing in concrete slab is a game-changer for builders, remodelers, and serious DIYers. By following precise measurements, using quality materials, and adhering to code, you’ll avoid the nightmare of post-pour plumbing failures. Remember: measure twice, cut once, and always get inspected.

Found this guide helpful? Share it with a friend tackling their own bathroom build—or pin it for your next project! 💧🔧

Your future self (and your wallet) will thank you.

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