If you’re leaving your home unoccupied during the cold months, you’re not alone—but failing to winterize your plumbing could leave you with a $5,000+ repair bill from burst pipes. According to the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety, frozen pipes are among the top causes of winter property damage, especially in vacant homes where heat isn’t maintained. So, how do you winterize plumbing in a vacant house properly? This guide walks you through every essential step, trusted by contractors and endorsed by home insurance experts.
Why Winterizing Plumbing in a Vacant House Is Non-Negotiable
When a house sits empty during winter, indoor temperatures can plummet—especially if the heat is off. Water inside pipes expands as it freezes, creating immense pressure that can crack copper, PVC, or PEX piping. The U.S. Department of Energy reports that a single frozen pipe can cause over $10,000 in water damage once it thaws and leaks.
Unlike occupied homes where faucets drip and heat circulates, vacant properties lack these natural protections. That’s why proactive winterization isn’t optional—it’s a critical safeguard for your biggest investment.
💡 Pro Tip: Even in “mild” winter zones (like Zone 6 or 7), unexpected cold snaps can drop temps below freezing for 48+ hours—long enough to freeze exposed pipes.
How Do You Winterize Plumbing in a Vacant House? A Step-by-Step Checklist
Follow this proven sequence to protect every part of your plumbing system. Skipping even one step could leave vulnerabilities.
Step 1: Shut Off the Main Water Supply
Locate your main water shutoff valve (usually in the basement, crawlspace, or near the water meter).
Turn it clockwise until fully closed.
Open the lowest drain valve in your system (often in the basement) to begin draining.
⚠️ Note: If your home uses a well, you’ll also need to disconnect the pressure tank and turn off the well pump at the breaker.
Step 2: Drain All Water from Pipes and Fixtures
Open all faucets (hot and cold)—start upstairs and work down.
Flush toilets until the tank and bowl are empty.
Remove aerators from sink faucets to ensure full drainage.
Drain the water heater:
Turn off power/gas.
Attach a hose to the drain valve.
Open the temperature & pressure (T&P) relief valve.
Drain completely into a floor drain or outside.
Step 3: Blow Out Remaining Water with an Air Compressor (Optional but Recommended)
For maximum protection, use an air compressor to force residual water from lines:
Connect to a hose bib or washing machine valve.
Use 30–50 PSI (do not exceed 60 PSI to avoid damaging fixtures).
Blow air through each line until only air comes out.
✅ Best Practice: Hire a plumber if you’re unsure—improper air pressure can crack valves or fittings.
Step 4: Add Non-Toxic Antifreeze to Drain Traps
Water in P-traps (under sinks, showers, floor drains) can evaporate or freeze, allowing sewer gases in and risking pipe damage.
Pour 1–2 cups of non-toxic RV antifreeze (propylene glycol-based, not automotive!) into:
Yes—if you’re comfortable with basic tools and follow this guide. However, if your home has a complex system (e.g., radiant floor heating or recirculating pumps), consult a licensed plumber.
How much does professional winterization cost?
Typically $200–$500, depending on home size and location. DIY costs under $50 (mostly for antifreeze and insulation).
What if I only winterize part of the house?
Partial winterization creates uneven pressure and hidden ice pockets—always treat the entire system.
Do I need to winterize if I have PEX pipes?
Yes. While PEX is more freeze-resistant than copper, it can still burst if water freezes and expands with no escape route.
FAQ: Winterizing Plumbing in Vacant Homes
Q: How long can a house sit without winterizing in winter? A: In freezing temps (below 32°F/0°C), pipes can freeze in as little as 6 hours if unheated and uninsulated. Never risk it.
Q: Can I use salt or vinegar instead of RV antifreeze? A: No. Salt is corrosive; vinegar offers no freeze protection. Only propylene glycol-based RV antifreeze is safe and effective.
Q: Should I turn off the water heater during winterization? A: Absolutely. Leaving it on with no water flow can crack the heating elements or tank lining. Always drain and power down.
Q: What if I’m only gone for 2 weeks in winter? A: If temps will dip below freezing, winterize anyway. Weather is unpredictable—better safe than flooded.
Q: Does homeowners insurance cover frozen pipe damage in vacant homes? A: Often no, unless you took “reasonable precautions.” Most policies exclude damage from lack of maintenance in unoccupied homes.
Q: Can I reverse winterization in spring myself? A: Yes: turn water back on slowly, flush all lines, refill water heater, and check for leaks before restoring full pressure.
Conclusion: Protect Your Property Before the First Frost
Knowing how do you winterize plumbing in a vacant house isn’t just handy—it’s essential for avoiding catastrophic (and costly) damage. By shutting off water, draining lines, adding antifreeze, and insulating vulnerable areas, you ensure your home stays safe all winter long—even while you’re away.
Don’t wait for a cold snap to act. Complete these steps before temperatures drop below 40°F to stay ahead of the freeze.
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Stay warm, stay dry, and protect your peace of mind.
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