Dealing with a stubborn clog in a curved or bendy pipe can be frustrating—even for seasoned DIYers. If you’ve ever tried forcing a plumbing snake through a U-bend or P-trap only to feel it jam or coil back on itself, you’re not alone. Knowing how to get a plumbing snake down a bendy pipe correctly can save you time, money, and potential pipe damage. In this guide, we’ll walk you through proven techniques that work with your home’s plumbing—not against it.
Why Won’t My Drain Snake Go Around the Bend?
Before diving into solutions, it helps to understand why snakes struggle in bendy pipes. Most household drains contain one or more curved sections—like the P-trap under your sink—that prevent sewer gases from entering your home. These bends are essential but tricky for rigid tools.
According to the Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors Association (PHCC), over 60% of DIY drain-clearing attempts fail because users apply too much force or use the wrong type of snake. The key isn’t brute strength—it’s technique and tool selection.
💡 Pro Tip: A standard hand-crank auger may not navigate tight bends effectively. Flexible, smaller-diameter cables (¼” to ⅜”) perform better in residential curved pipes.
Best Tools for Snaking Bendy Pipes
Not all drain snakes are created equal. Choosing the right one dramatically increases your success rate.
For bendy pipes under sinks, a hand-crank auger with a ¼-inch cable is ideal. Its flexibility allows it to follow curves without kinking. Avoid thick, stiff cables—they resist bending and often double back.
📌 Note: Always check your snake’s tip. A smooth, rounded end (not sharp) reduces the risk of scratching PVC or PEX pipes.
Step-by-Step: How to Get a Plumbing Snake Down a Bendy Pipe
Follow these precise steps to navigate bends safely and effectively:
Step 1: Remove the P-Trap (If Possible)
Place a bucket underneath.
Use slip-joint pliers to loosen the nuts.
Inspect the trap for clogs—many blockages are caught here.
If cleared, reassemble. If not, proceed to snaking from the trap opening (this gives you a straighter path past the first bend).
✅ Why this works: Bypassing the initial U-bend eliminates the hardest turn. According to This Old House, 70% of kitchen sink clogs sit within 2 feet of the drain—often in the trap itself.
Step 2: Insert the Snake Slowly
Feed the cable by hand (don’t crank yet).
Push gently while rotating the handle clockwise.
When you feel resistance, pause—don’t force it.
Step 3: Navigate the Bend with Rotation
At the bend, rotate the handle slowly (1–2 full turns per inch advanced).
Let the snake’s natural flexibility guide it around the curve.
If it binds, pull back slightly, then re-feed with a different angle.
Step 4: Break Up or Retrieve the Clog
Once past the bend, continue feeding until you hit the obstruction.
Crank firmly to hook or break up the clog.
Retract slowly—debris often wraps around the cable.
Step 5: Flush with Hot Water
Run hot (not boiling) water for 2–3 minutes to clear residue.
Ideal temperature: 120–140°F (49–60°C)—hot enough to melt grease but safe for PVC.
Even small errors can cause big problems. Here’s what not to do:
Forcing the snake: This can scratch pipes or cause kinks that worsen clogs.
Using the wrong size: A ½” cable won’t fit smoothly through a 1.5″ sink drain with bends.
Ignoring pipe material: Older cast iron or corroded pipes are fragile—use extra care.
Skipping disassembly: Trying to snake through the drain opening adds unnecessary bends.
When to Call a Professional
While most bendy-pipe clogs can be handled at home, call a plumber if:
You’ve snaked more than 25 feet with no success.
Water backs up in multiple fixtures.
You smell sewage (possible vent or main line issue).
Your pipes are older than 40 years (risk of collapse).
The National Association of Home Builders reports that improper DIY snaking causes 12% of emergency plumbing calls—often due to punctured pipes or displaced joints.
FAQ Section
Q1: Can I use a drain snake on a P-trap?
A: Yes—but it’s easier to remove the P-trap first. Snaking through it intact is possible with a flexible, thin auger, but removal gives direct access and higher success rates.
Q2: Why does my snake keep coiling instead of going forward?
A: This usually means you’re hitting a bend without enough rotational guidance. Stop cranking, pull back 6 inches, and re-feed while slowly turning the handle to “steer” the tip.
Q3: What’s the difference between a drain snake and an auger?
A: The terms are often used interchangeably, but technically:
Drain snake = general term for any flexible cable.
Auger = a specific tool with a crank handle. For bendy pipes, look for a hand auger with a flexible inner cable.
A: Yes—if used incorrectly. Aggressive force or sharp tips can scratch PVC or crack old ceramic traps. Always use smooth, controlled motions and inspect your snake for burrs before use.
Q5: How far can a typical hand snake reach around bends?
A: Most quality hand augers can navigate 15–25 feet, even with multiple bends, as long as the cable diameter matches the pipe (¼” for sinks, ⅜” for showers).
Q6: Are chemical drain cleaners better than snaking for bendy pipes?
A: No. Chemicals often fail in bent pipes because they pool in low spots instead of reaching the clog. They also corrode pipes over time. The EPA recommends mechanical methods like snaking first.
Conclusion
Knowing how to get a plumbing snake down a bendy pipe isn’t about muscle—it’s about method. With the right tool, a patient approach, and the steps outlined above, you can clear most household clogs without calling a pro. Not only will you save $150–$300 on a service call, but you’ll also protect your plumbing from unnecessary stress.
If this guide helped you conquer that stubborn sink clog, share it with a friend who’s battling slow drains! 💧🔧 #DIYPlumbing #HomeMaintenance #DrainSnakeTips
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