If your faucets are sputtering, your shower pressure drops unexpectedly, or you hear loud knocking sounds from your pipes, you likely have air trapped in your plumbing system. This common issue isn’t just annoying—it can reduce water pressure and even damage fixtures over time. The good news? Learning how to get rid of air in plumbing system is easier than you think, and often requires no special tools. In this guide, we’ll walk you through safe, proven methods to restore smooth water flow and quiet your pipes for good.
What Causes Air to Get Trapped in Pipes?
Air enters your plumbing system through several common scenarios:
- After plumbing repairs or maintenance (e.g., turning off the main water valve).
- Running out of water from a well system or municipal supply interruption.
- Leaks or faulty valves that allow air to infiltrate when pressure drops.
- New pipe installations, where air wasn’t properly purged during setup.
According to the Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors Association (PHCC), up to 30% of residential service calls related to low water pressure stem from airlocks—especially in older homes or multi-story buildings where water must travel vertically.
💡 Fun Fact: While small air pockets are normal, large accumulations can create airlocks—complete blockages that stop water flow entirely. Unlike gases in natural gas lines, the air in water pipes is typically just atmospheric air (mostly nitrogen and oxygen), not dangerous—but definitely disruptive.
For a deeper understanding of fluid dynamics in household systems, see this Wikipedia entry on water hammer and air in pipes.
How to Get Rid of Air in Plumbing System: Step-by-Step Guide
Follow this systematic approach to clear air from your entire plumbing system. It works for both city water and well systems.
Step 1: Shut Off the Main Water Supply
Locate your home’s main water shutoff valve (usually in the basement, garage, or near the water meter). Turn it clockwise to close. This prevents new water (and air) from entering during the purge.
Step 2: Open All Faucets & Fixtures
Start from the highest point in your home (e.g., upstairs bathroom) and work downward:
- Turn on all cold water faucets (kitchen, bathroom sinks, tubs, outdoor spigots).
- Flush all toilets once.
- If you have a washing machine or dishwasher, run them briefly on the “rinse” cycle to open their water inlet valves.
✅ Why start high? Air rises. Opening upper fixtures first gives trapped air a clear escape path.
Step 3: Turn the Main Water Supply Back On
Slowly open the main valve counterclockwise. You’ll hear gurgling or hissing as air escapes through open faucets. Let water run until it flows smoothly and steadily from every fixture—no sputtering.
⏱️ Time Tip: This usually takes 2–5 minutes per faucet, depending on pipe length and air volume.
Step 4: Close Fixtures from Bottom to Top
Once all faucets run clear:
- Start with the lowest faucet (e.g., basement or outdoor hose bib).
- Work your way upward, closing each fixture.
This prevents new air pockets from forming as pressure stabilizes.
Step 5: Check Water Pressure & Noise
After closing all fixtures:
- Test shower pressure.
- Listen for knocking sounds (a sign of water hammer, often worsened by air).
- If issues persist, repeat the process or inspect for leaks.
Signs Your Plumbing Still Has Trapped Air
Even after purging, watch for these red flags:
| Symptom | Likely Cause |
|---|---|
| Sputtering faucets | Residual air in localized lines |
| Loud banging when turning off water | Water hammer + air pockets |
| Low pressure in one fixture only | Partial airlock near that outlet |
| Toilet tank fills slowly | Air in supply line to toilet |
If only one fixture is affected, you may not need a full-system purge. Try this shortcut:
🔧 Single-Fixture Air Release:
- Turn off the fixture’s dedicated shutoff valve (under sink or behind toilet).
- Open the faucet to drain remaining water.
- Briefly reopen the shutoff valve while faucet is open—air escapes instantly.
- Close faucet, then shutoff valve. Test flow.
Preventing Air from Re-entering Your System
Avoid future air issues with these proactive steps:
- Install an air release valve (also called an air vent) at high points in your plumbing—especially in radiant heating or well systems.
- Maintain consistent water pressure (ideal: 40–60 PSI). Use a pressure-reducing valve if needed.
- Inspect for leaks annually—small drips can create suction that pulls in air.
- Never let your well pump run dry—this is a leading cause of air ingestion in private water systems.
📊 Expert Insight: A 2023 study by the American Society of Plumbing Engineers (ASPE) found that homes with air release valves experienced 72% fewer airlock complaints over a 2-year period.
When to Call a Professional Plumber
While most air issues are DIY-friendly, seek expert help if:
- You’ve repeated the purge process 3+ times with no improvement.
- You notice discolored water or foul odors after purging (sign of contamination).
- Your system includes complex manifolds, recirculation pumps, or hydronic heating.
- You suspect a broken check valve or faulty pressure tank (common in well systems).
Licensed plumbers use pressure gauges and specialized bleeding tools to diagnose hidden air pockets that homeowners can’t reach.
FAQ: How to Get Rid of Air in Plumbing System
Q1: Can air in pipes cause damage?
Yes. Persistent air pockets can lead to water hammer, which stresses joints and valves. Over time, this may cause leaks or pipe failure—especially in copper or PEX systems.
Q2: Why do my pipes make noise after turning the water back on?
Gurgling or knocking is normal during purging as air escapes. But if noise continues after 10 minutes of steady flow, you may have a partial airlock or need a water hammer arrestor.
Q3: Does this method work for well water systems?
Yes—but also check your pressure tank. A waterlogged tank (lacking an air cushion) can mimic air-in-pipe symptoms. Recharge the tank’s air bladder if needed (typically 28 PSI when empty).
Q4: How often should I purge air from my plumbing?
Only when symptoms appear. However, if you frequently shut off your main water (e.g., during vacations), purge once per reactivation.
Q5: Can hot water lines have air too?
Absolutely. Always purge cold lines first, then repeat the process with hot water faucets—since water heaters can trap separate air pockets.
Q6: Is “bleeding radiators” the same as removing air from plumbing?
Similar principle, but different systems. Radiators use manual bleed valves; plumbing relies on faucet purging. Don’t confuse the two—your home’s heating and water supply are usually separate.
Conclusion
Now you know exactly how to get rid of air in plumbing system—safely, affordably, and effectively. Whether it’s a sputtering kitchen faucet or a mysterious pipe knock, this guide gives you the power to restore quiet, strong water flow in under 15 minutes.
✅ Benefits you’ve gained:
- Eliminated annoying noises
- Restored full water pressure
- Prevented long-term pipe damage
- Saved money on unnecessary service calls
Found this helpful? Share it with a friend who’s battling noisy pipes! Tap the social buttons below or send them the link. And if you’ve tried these steps, let us know your results in the comments—we love hearing your DIY wins!
Stay flowing, stay quiet—and never let air ruin your shower again. 💧🔇
Leave a Reply