If you’ve noticed slow drains, gurgling toilets, or sewage backups, tree roots might be silently invading your plumbing. Left unchecked, these roots can crack pipes and cause costly damage. The good news? You can learn how to get rid of roots in plumbing—safely, effectively, and often without breaking the bank. Whether you’re a homeowner tackling a minor clog or facing a full sewer line invasion, this guide walks you through every step with expert-backed solutions.
Why Do Tree Roots Invade Plumbing Pipes?
Tree roots seek moisture, oxygen, and nutrients—and your sewer or drain pipes are a perfect target, especially if they’re older clay or cast iron pipes with tiny cracks or loose joints. According to the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO), root intrusion is among the top three causes of sewer line blockages in residential properties.
Even a hairline crack can let in a root hair. Over time, that tiny invader grows into a dense mass that traps debris, reduces flow, and eventually blocks your entire line.
💡 Pro Tip: Roots grow fastest in spring and summer. If you’ve had past issues, schedule a preventive inspection before warm weather hits.
How to Know If You Have Roots in Your Pipes
Don’t wait for a full-blown backup. Watch for these early warning signs:
- Slow-draining sinks or showers (even after using a plunger)
- Gurgling sounds from toilets or floor drains
- Foul odors near drains or in your yard
- Sewage backup in basement floor drains or toilets
- Lush green patches in your lawn (a sign of leaking nutrient-rich wastewater)
If you suspect roots, a sewer camera inspection is the gold standard for confirmation. Many plumbers offer this service for $100–$250 and can show you exactly where and how severe the intrusion is.
6 Proven Ways to Get Rid of Roots in Plumbing
1. Mechanical Root Removal (Snaking or Roding)
This is the most common first-line defense. A plumber (or skilled DIYer) uses a power auger with a root-cutting blade to slice through roots inside the pipe.
Best for: Minor to moderate root blockages in accessible lines.
How it works:
- Insert the auger cable into the cleanout or toilet.
- Rotate the cable while feeding it into the pipe until resistance is met.
- Engage the cutting head to shred roots.
- Flush the line with water to clear debris.
✅ Pros: Immediate results, relatively affordable ($150–$400).
❌ Cons: Doesn’t prevent regrowth; roots often return in 6–18 months.
2. Hydro Jetting: High-Pressure Water Blasting
Hydro jetting uses water pressurized at 3,000–4,000 PSI to blast away roots, sludge, and buildup from pipe walls.
Best for: Severe root masses or pipes with heavy grease/scaling.
Process:
- A specialized nozzle is inserted into the sewer line.
- High-pressure water scours the interior, removing both roots and residue.
According to a 2022 study by the Water Environment Federation, hydro jetting clears 95% of organic blockages more effectively than mechanical snaking alone.
✅ Pros: Deep clean, restores pipe to near-original capacity.
❌ Cons: Not suitable for fragile or collapsed pipes (can worsen damage).
🔗 Learn more about pipe materials and vulnerabilities on Wikipedia’s page on sewer systems .
3. Chemical Root Killers (Foaming or Copper-Based)
These products kill roots on contact and slow regrowth. Common active ingredients include dichlobenil (foaming) or copper sulfate.
How to use safely:
- Pour 2 lbs of copper sulfate crystals (or follow product instructions) into the toilet.
- Flush once—do not over-flush.
- Repeat weekly for 2–3 weeks.
- Wait 6–8 hours between treatments to allow chemical contact time.
⚠️ Warning: Never use chemical root killers in septic systems—they can kill beneficial bacteria. Also, avoid mixing chemicals or using them in PVC pipes without checking compatibility.
✅ Pros: Low-cost ($20–$50), easy DIY option.
❌ Cons: Temporary fix; toxic to plants and aquatic life if overused.
4. Pipe Relining (Trenchless Repair)
For recurring root problems, cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) lining seals cracks from the inside without digging up your yard. A resin-coated liner is inflated inside the pipe and cured with UV light or steam, creating a “pipe within a pipe.”
Success rate: Over 90% of relined pipes remain root-free for 10+ years (per Trenchless Technology Center data).
✅ Pros: No excavation, long-term solution, preserves landscaping.
❌ Cons: Higher upfront cost ($80–$250 per foot).
5. Traditional Pipe Replacement
If your pipes are collapsed, severely cracked, or made of outdated materials (like Orangeburg), full replacement may be necessary. Modern PVC or HDPE pipes are root-resistant and last 50+ years.
When to choose this:
- Camera inspection shows structural damage
- Frequent backups despite treatments
- Home is over 50 years old with original sewer lines
6. Preventive Measures to Stop Roots from Returning
The best cure is prevention. Try these strategies:
- Plant trees at least 10–15 feet away from sewer lines (more for aggressive species like willows or poplars).
- Install root barriers (plastic or fabric) around vulnerable pipe zones.
- Schedule annual sewer inspections if you’ve had past issues.
- Use root-killing treatments quarterly as maintenance (e.g., foaming root killer in spring/fall).
Root Removal Methods Compared
| Mechanical Snaking | $150–$400 | 6–18 months | Minor blockages | Moderate |
| Hydro Jetting | $300–$600 | 1–3 years | Heavy buildup + roots | No |
| Chemical Killers | $20–$50 | 3–12 months | Early-stage intrusion | Yes |
| Pipe Relining | $4,000–$12,000 | 10+ years | Recurring issues, no dig | No |
| Full Replacement | $5,000–$20,000 | Permanent | Collapsed/old pipes | No |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I remove tree roots from my sewer line myself?
A: Yes—for minor cases. A hand-crank drain auger ($30–$80) can clear small root hairs near the cleanout. But for deep or dense roots, DIY tools often lack the torque. Plus, improper use can damage pipes. When in doubt, call a licensed plumber.
Q: How long does it take for roots to grow back after removal?
A: It depends on the season, pipe condition, and tree species. In warm, wet climates, roots can regrow in as little as 3–6 months. Using a foaming root killer after mechanical cleaning can extend that to 12–24 months.
Q: Are chemical root killers safe for my septic system?
A: No. Most chemical root killers (especially copper sulfate) kill the beneficial bacteria your septic tank needs to function. If you have a septic system, stick to mechanical or hydro jetting methods, and consult a septic specialist before using any chemicals.
Q: Will homeowners insurance cover root damage in pipes?
A: Typically, no. Most standard policies exclude “gradual damage” like root intrusion, considering it a maintenance issue. However, if a sudden collapse causes water damage to your home, that portion might be covered. Always check your policy or ask your agent.
Q: What trees are most likely to invade sewer lines?
A: Fast-growing, water-seeking species like willows, poplars, silver maples, and elms are the worst offenders. Avoid planting these within 20 feet of any underground plumbing.
Q: Can I prevent roots without removing nearby trees?
A: Yes. Install physical root barriers (made of high-density plastic) vertically in the soil between trees and pipes. You can also inject rock salt or slow-release root inhibitors into the soil near the line—but use cautiously to avoid harming the tree or environment.
Conclusion
Dealing with roots in your plumbing is stressful—but now you know exactly how to get rid of roots in plumbing, whether you choose a quick DIY fix or a long-term professional solution. Early detection, the right method for your situation, and consistent prevention are key to protecting your home from costly damage.
Don’t wait for a sewage emergency! Share this guide with a friend who’s battling slow drains—or pin it for your next home maintenance project. 💧🌳
Got questions or a root horror story? Drop a comment below—we’re here to help!
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