How to Plumb a Shallow Well Pump and Pressure Tank

If you’re relying on a shallow well for your home’s water supply, correctly plumbing your pump and pressure tank isn’t just helpful—it’s essential. A poorly installed system can lead to low water pressure, pump burnout, or even contamination. Fortunately, with the right guidance, how to plumb a shallow well pump and pressure tank is a manageable DIY project for many homeowners. This guide walks you through every critical step, using clear instructions, expert-backed tips, and safety-first practices—so you get reliable water without calling a pro.

What Is a Shallow Well System?

A shallow well typically draws water from depths of 25 feet or less, using a jet pump (often called a shallow well pump) installed above ground. Unlike deep wells that require submersible pumps, shallow wells rely on suction to pull water up—making proper plumbing vital to maintain prime and prevent air leaks.

According to the U.S. Geological Survey, over 13 million households in the U.S. use private wells for drinking water. Of these, shallow wells are common in rural areas with high water tables—but they demand precise installation to function efficiently.

💡 Pro Tip: Shallow well pumps can only lift water about 25 feet vertically due to atmospheric pressure limits. If your water table drops below this, you’ll need a different system.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather these essentials:

• Shallow well jet pump (1/2 HP to 1 HP, depending on household size)
• Pressure tank (bladder or diaphragm type, 20–80 gallons)
• PVC or galvanized steel piping (1″ diameter recommended)
• Check valve (spring-loaded, installed near the pump)
• Pressure switch (typically preset at 30/50 PSI)
• Pipe thread sealant (Teflon tape or pipe dope)
• Unions and fittings (elbows, tees, nipples)
• Hose clamps (if using flexible connectors)
• Pipe cutter or hacksaw
• Adjustable wrenches and pipe wrench
• Air compressor (to pre-charge the pressure tank)

Always follow local plumbing and well codes—some states require permits or inspections for well work.

Step-by-Step: How to Plumb a Shallow Well Pump and Pressure Tank

Follow these steps carefully. Even small errors can cause loss of prime or system failure.

Step 1: Install the Pump Near the Well

Mount the pump on a level, stable surface within 10–15 feet of the well casing. Shorter suction lines reduce friction and improve priming.

• Use a union fitting on the suction side for easy future maintenance.
• Install a foot valve at the bottom of the drop pipe inside the well. This keeps water in the line when the pump shuts off, maintaining prime.

📌 Note: The foot valve must be below the water table year-round. Check historical water levels in your area before installation.

Step 2: Connect the Suction Line

Run a 1-inch pipe from the well casing to the pump inlet.

• Use Schedule 40 PVC or galvanized steel—avoid flexible hoses on the suction side.
• Ensure all joints are airtight. Even a tiny leak can break the vacuum and cause the pump to lose prime.
• Apply Teflon tape to all threaded connections (3–5 wraps, clockwise).

Step 3: Mount and Pre-Charge the Pressure Tank

Place the pressure tank vertically on a stable base near the pump.

• Pre-charge the tank with air to 2 PSI below the pump’s cut-in pressure.
  Example: If your pressure switch is set to 30/50 PSI, charge the tank to 28 PSI using an air compressor.
• Use a tire gauge to verify—never skip this step! An undercharged tank causes “short cycling,” which wears out the pump.

Step 4: Plumb the Discharge Side

Connect the pump outlet to the pressure tank inlet:

1. Pump outlet → Check valve (prevents backflow)
2. Check valve → Pressure switch tee
3. Tee → Pressure tank inlet
4. Tee → House supply line

⚠️ Critical: The pressure switch must be mounted on the same tee as the tank. This ensures it senses accurate system pressure.

Step 5: Prime the Pump

Fill the pump housing and suction line with clean water through the priming plug:

• Remove the priming plug.
• Pour in 2–3 gallons of clean water until full.
• Replace the plug tightly.
• Turn on the pump. It should build pressure within 30–60 seconds.

If it doesn’t, check for air leaks or a faulty foot valve.

Step 6: Test and Adjust

• Open a faucet and let water run until air clears.
• Monitor the pressure gauge: it should cycle between your set points (e.g., 30 PSI on, 50 PSI off).
• Listen for unusual noises—chattering may indicate short cycling or air in the tank.

For visual learners, the U.S. EPA’s Private Well Owner’s Guide offers helpful diagrams (note: while EPA doesn’t cover plumbing specifics, their well safety standards are authoritative).

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Shallow Well vs. Deep Well: Which Do You Have?

Not sure if your well is shallow? Here’s how to tell:

• Shallow well: Casing depth ≤ 25 ft, uses above-ground jet pump, suction lift only.
• Deep well: Casing > 25 ft, uses submersible pump or deep-well jet pump with two pipes.

Confusing the two leads to wrong equipment—and system failure. When in doubt, consult your well driller’s report or measure static water level with a weighted string.

FAQ: How to Plumb a Shallow Well Pump and Pressure Tank

Q1: Can I use PVC for the entire plumbing system?
A: Yes—for the discharge side, PVC is fine. But for the suction side, many experts recommend rigid materials like galvanized steel or copper to prevent collapse under vacuum. Flexible PVC can kink or deform.

Q2: How often should I check the pressure tank’s air charge?
A: At least once a year. Over time, air can absorb into the water (especially in non-bladder tanks), reducing efficiency. Recharge if pressure drops below 2 PSI under cut-in.

Q3: Why does my pump turn on every time I open the faucet?
A: This indicates no stored water in the tank—likely due to a waterlogged bladder or incorrect pre-charge. Test by pressing the air valve: if water comes out, the bladder is ruptured and the tank needs replacement.

Q4: Do I need a pressure relief valve?
A: Yes. Install a 75 PSI relief valve on the discharge line for safety. Pressure switches can fail, and unchecked pressure can burst pipes.

Q5: Can I install this system myself?
A: If you’re comfortable with basic plumbing and follow local codes, yes. However, if your well is your sole water source or you’re unsure about electrical connections (pumps require 240V in many cases), hire a licensed well contractor.

Q6: How long does a shallow well pump last?
A: With proper installation and maintenance, 8–15 years. Frequent cycling, dry running, or sediment drastically shorten lifespan.

Conclusion

Now you know exactly how to plumb a shallow well pump and pressure tank—safely, efficiently, and correctly. A well-installed system delivers consistent water pressure, extends equipment life, and protects your home’s water quality. Whether you’re off-grid, in a rural area, or just want independence from municipal supply, mastering this skill pays off for years.

🔧 Pro move: Take photos during installation for future reference—and label all valves!

If this guide helped you, share it with a neighbor or DIY friend on Facebook, Pinterest, or Reddit’s r/homestead! Clean water starts with smart plumbing—and you’ve just taken a big step toward self-reliance.

Got questions? Drop them in the comments below—we read every one.