If you’re relying on a private well for your home’s water supply, knowing how to plumb a water well with an inground pump is essential—especially if you’re installing a new system or replacing old components. Many homeowners face confusion, costly mistakes, or even contamination risks when attempting this without clear guidance. You’re not alone—and you’ve come to the right place. This guide walks you through every critical step with safety, efficiency, and compliance in mind.
What Is an Inground (Submersible) Well Pump?
An inground pump—more accurately called a submersible well pump—is installed deep inside the well casing, below the water level. Unlike jet pumps (which sit above ground), submersible pumps push water upward under pressure, making them more efficient, quieter, and less prone to cavitation.
According to the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), over 13 million households in the U.S. rely on private wells for drinking water. Of those, the majority use submersible pumps due to their reliability and longevity—often lasting 10–15 years with proper installation.
💡 Pro Tip: Submersible pumps are ideal for wells deeper than 25 feet. For shallow wells, a jet pump may suffice—but for most modern residential wells, submersibles are the standard.
Tools & Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather these essentials:
Submersible pump (correct horsepower and GPM rating for your well depth and household demand)
Polyethylene or PVC drop pipe (rated for potable water)
⚠️ Safety First: Always turn off power at the main breaker before working near electrical components. Never work alone when handling heavy pump assemblies.
Step-by-Step: How to Plumb a Water Well with an Inground Pump
Step 1: Determine Your Well Specifications
Start by reviewing your well log (usually provided by the driller). Note:
Static water level (depth to water when not pumping)
Well depth and casing diameter
Recommended pump depth (typically 10–20 feet above the well bottom)
Example: If your well is 150 feet deep with a static level at 40 feet, install the pump around 130–140 feet down.
Step 2: Choose the Right Pump & Pipe
Match your pump to your household’s GPM (gallons per minute) needs:
1–2 bathrooms: 5–7 GPM
3+ bathrooms or irrigation: 10–12 GPM
Use 1¼” or 1½” polyethylene pipe for most residential applications. Avoid PVC for deep wells—it can crack under stress.
Step 3: Assemble the Pump and Drop Pipe
Attach the pump to the first section of drop pipe using stainless steel clamps.
Install a torque arrestor every 20–30 feet to prevent pipe twisting during startup.
Connect the pump’s power cable to the drop pipe with UV-resistant zip ties (every 10 feet).
🔧 Expert Insight: “Improper cable management is the #1 cause of premature pump failure,” says Mike Thompson, a certified well contractor with 22 years of experience in rural Texas.
Step 4: Install the Pitless Adapter
The pitless adapter allows you to connect the underground discharge line to the house without opening the well cap—a critical sanitary feature.
Lower the pump assembly into the well.
From the side access port, insert the pitless adapter into the well casing.
Lock it into the pump’s discharge outlet using a T-handle tool.
This creates a sealed, frost-proof connection below the frost line (typically 42″ deep in northern states).
Step 5: Run the Discharge Line to the House
Use Schedule 40 PVC or NSF-approved HDPE pipe from the pitless adapter to your pressure tank.
Bury the line at least 18–24 inches deep to prevent freezing.
Slope the pipe slightly toward the well to allow drainage during maintenance.
Step 6: Wire the System Safely
Use 10/2 or 10/3 UF-B cable (depending on voltage: 230V single-phase is standard).
Connect wires in a watertight junction box using heat-shrink splices.
Route conduit to a dedicated double-pole breaker in your main panel.
Mount the pressure tank near the point of entry (e.g., basement or utility room).
Set the pressure switch to 40/60 psi (standard for most homes).
Pre-charge the tank bladder to 2 psi below cut-in pressure (e.g., 38 psi for a 40/60 switch).
Step 8: Test & Sanitize
Turn on power and let the pump fill the system.
Check for leaks at all joints.
Sanitize the system: Add 1 quart of unscented household bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite) per 100 gallons of water in the well. Circulate, wait 12 hours, then flush thoroughly.
📊 Stat: The CDC recommends annual well water testing. Contaminated wells affect ~15% of private U.S. wells, often due to improper installation or lack of maintenance.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Mistake
Consequence
Solution
Skipping torque arrestors
Pipe wear, pump failure
Install every 20–30 ft
Using non-potable pipe
Health hazard
Only use NSF/ANSI 61-certified materials
Incorrect pump depth
Sand ingestion or dry-run
Place 10–20 ft above well bottom
Poor wire splicing
Short circuits, fire risk
Use waterproof, heat-shrink splices
Advantages vs. Disadvantages of Inground Pumps
✅ Pros:
Higher efficiency (up to 90% vs. 60% for jet pumps)
Quieter operation (motor is underwater)
Less prone to losing prime
Longer lifespan with proper care
❌ Cons:
More expensive upfront
Harder to service (requires pulling entire assembly)
Requires professional-grade tools for deep wells
FAQ Section
Q1: Can I install a submersible pump myself?
A: Yes—if you’re comfortable with plumbing, basic electrical work, and have the right tools. However, for wells deeper than 100 feet or complex setups, hiring a licensed well contractor is strongly advised. Mistakes can lead to contamination, pump burnout, or code violations.
Q2: How deep should the pump be placed in the well?
A: Typically 10–20 feet above the well’s bottom. This avoids sediment while ensuring the pump stays submerged during peak usage. Never place it below the well screen.
Q3: What size pressure tank do I need?
A: Match the tank to your pump’s flow rate. A common rule: 1 gallon of drawdown per 1 GPM of pump output. For a 10 GPM pump, aim for a 40–50 gallon tank (which provides ~10–12 gallons of usable water).
Q4: Why is my pump short-cycling?
A: Short-cycling (rapid on/off) usually means low air charge in the pressure tank or a waterlogged bladder. Recharge the tank or replace it if damaged.
Q5: Do I need a permit to install a well pump?
A: In most U.S. states, yes. Check with your local health department or environmental agency. Permits ensure your system meets sanitation and construction codes.
Q6: How often should I maintain my well system?
A: Inspect annually: test water quality, check pressure settings, and examine wiring. Flush the system every 3–5 years to remove mineral buildup.
Conclusion
Learning how to plumb a water well with an inground pump empowers you to secure clean, reliable water for your home—while saving thousands on professional installation. By following these steps, using quality materials, and prioritizing safety, you’ll build a system that lasts for years.
If this guide helped you, share it with a friend or neighbor who’s tackling a similar project! And don’t forget to bookmark this page for future reference—or pin it on Pinterest for easy DIY access.
💧 Clean water starts with smart plumbing. You’ve got this!
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