How to Plumb an Auger on John Deere 310 SJ – Step-by-Step Guide

Home » How to Plumb an Auger on John Deere 310 SJ – Step-by-Step Guide

If you own or operate a John Deere 310 SJ, you know how versatile this backhoe loader can be—especially when equipped with attachments like an auger. But if you’ve never plumbed an auger onto your machine before, the process might feel overwhelming. Don’t worry—you’re not alone. Many contractors and DIYers struggle with hydraulic hookups, flow direction, and compatibility issues. In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to plumb an auger on John Deere 310 SJ with clear, actionable steps that prioritize safety, efficiency, and performance.


What Is an Auger Attachment & Why Use It on a John Deere 310 SJ?

An auger is a drilling attachment used for digging holes in soil, clay, or even light rock—ideal for fence posts, deck footings, or tree planting. The John Deere 310 SJ (a popular model in the 310 series produced from the late 1980s to early 2000s) features auxiliary hydraulic ports that allow operators to power such attachments.

According to the Association of Equipment Manufacturers (AEM), over 68% of compact utility loaders and backhoes in the U.S. are used with at least one hydraulic attachment—and augers rank among the top three. Proper plumbing ensures your auger spins reliably, reduces wear on hydraulic components, and prevents costly leaks or system damage.

💡 Pro Tip: Always verify your 310 SJ’s hydraulic flow rate (typically 17–21 GPM) matches your auger’s requirements. Mismatched flow can cause stalling or overheating.


Do You Need a Third Function Valve or Diverter Kit?

Many users assume the standard rear remotes on the 310 SJ are enough—but they’re not always sufficient for continuous auger operation.

The 310 SJ typically comes with two rear hydraulic remotes (for implements like blades or rippers). However, running an auger often requires a dedicated third function or a hydraulic diverter kit to avoid constantly switching hoses.

OptionProsCons
Factory Third FunctionSeamless integration, OEM reliabilityRare on older 310 SJ models; expensive retrofit
Aftermarket Diverter KitAffordable (~$150–$300), easy installMay reduce flow to other functions
Manual Hose SwapNo extra costTime-consuming, messy, unsafe under pressure

Most experts recommend installing a hydraulic diverter valve (e.g., from brands like WR Long or CCM) if your machine lacks a third function. This lets you toggle between rear remotes and the auger without disconnecting hoses.

🔗 Learn more about hydraulic systems on Wikipedia.


Tools & Materials You’ll Need

Before starting, gather these essentials:

  • Hydraulic-rated hoses (SAE 100R2AT, 1/2″ or 3/4″ depending on auger specs)
  • Quick-disconnect couplers (flat-face preferred for low spill)
  • Wrench set (metric and SAE)
  • Torque wrench
  • Hydraulic fluid (John Deere Hy-Gard or equivalent)
  • Safety glasses & gloves
  • Shop rags
  • Pressure gauge (optional but recommended)

⚠️ Never work on hydraulic lines under pressure. Always shut off the engine, lower the loader, and relieve system pressure by moving control levers side-to-side.

How To Plumb An Auger On John Deere 310 Sj

Step-by-Step: How to Plumb an Auger on John Deere 310 SJ

Follow these steps carefully to ensure a safe, leak-free installation:

Step 1: Identify Your Hydraulic Ports

Locate the auxiliary hydraulic outlets on your 310 SJ. These are usually near the rear axle or under the seat. Confirm whether they’re power beyond, open-center, or closed-center—the 310 SJ uses an open-center system.

Step 2: Choose the Right Plumbing Path

  • If using a diverter kit: Install it between the tractor’s hydraulic block and the rear remotes.
  • If using existing remotes: Disconnect the current implement hoses and connect directly to the auger.

Step 3: Connect Hoses to the Auger Motor

  • Attach pressure hose (from machine) to the auger motor’s inlet port.
  • Attach return hose to the outlet port.
  • Ensure hoses aren’t twisted or kinked. Allow slack for loader movement.

📏 Use hoses at least 6–8 feet long to prevent tension during operation.

Step 4: Secure Fittings & Torque Properly

  • Hand-tighten fittings first, then use a wrench to tighten to spec:
    • 1/2″ JIC fittings: 25–30 ft-lbs
    • 3/4″ JIC fittings: 35–40 ft-lbs
  • Over-tightening cracks fittings; under-tightening causes leaks.

Step 5: Bleed Air from the System

Start the engine at low idle. Cycle the auger control slowly 5–6 times to purge air. Check for leaks at all connections.

Step 6: Test Under Load

Drill a test hole in soft soil. Monitor:

  • Smooth rotation (no jerking)
  • Hydraulic oil temperature (<180°F after 10 mins)
  • No unusual noise from the pump or motor

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced operators make these errors:

  1. Reversing inlet/outlet hoses → Causes motor to spin backward or cavitate.
  2. Using non-hydraulic hoses → Standard rubber hoses burst under 2,000+ PSI.
  3. Ignoring case drain lines → Some auger motors require a separate drain line to tank; omitting it damages seals.
  4. Skipping filtration → Dirty fluid wears out valves. Use a 10-micron filter if adding a new circuit.

🛠️ Case Study: A landscaping crew in Ohio damaged a $1,200 auger motor by skipping the case drain. Total repair cost: $2,400. Always read the auger manual!


Maintenance Tips After Installation

  • Check hose condition monthly for cracks or abrasion.
  • Replace hydraulic fluid every 500 hours (or annually).
  • Grease auger gearbox per manufacturer schedule (usually every 10 hours of use).
  • Store auger vertically to prevent oil leakage from the motor.

FAQ Section

Q1: Can I run an auger without a third function on my 310 SJ?

A: Yes—but only if you’re willing to manually swap hoses from another implement. For frequent use, a diverter kit or third function is strongly recommended for safety and convenience.

Q2: Which direction should the auger spin?

A: Most augers rotate clockwise (when viewed from above) to dig into the ground. If yours spins counterclockwise, reverse the hydraulic hoses at the motor.

Q3: What hydraulic flow does the John Deere 310 SJ provide?

A: The standard open-center system delivers 17–21 gallons per minute (GPM) at ~2,250 PSI—sufficient for most 9″ to 18″ augers.

Q4: Do I need a flow control valve?

A: Only if your auger spins too fast or stalls. A flow control valve ($80–$150) lets you fine-tune RPM for different soil types.

Q5: Can I use quick-connects from any brand?

A: Only if they’re interchangeable (e.g., ISO 16028 flat-face). Mixing brands can cause leaks or accidental disconnection under pressure.

Q6: How long does plumbing take?

A: With tools ready, a first-time install takes 1.5–2.5 hours. Experienced users finish in under an hour.


Conclusion

Plumbing an auger on your John Deere 310 SJ doesn’t have to be intimidating. With the right parts, a methodical approach, and attention to hydraulic best practices, you’ll add serious functionality to your machine—saving time and labor on every job. Whether you’re installing a post for a backyard fence or prepping footings for a commercial build, a properly plumbed auger makes the work faster, cleaner, and safer.

Found this guide helpful? Share it with fellow operators on Facebook, LinkedIn, or your favorite contractor forum! And don’t forget to tag #JohnDeere310SJ or #AugerInstall—your tip could save someone a costly mistake.

Stay safe, stay efficient, and keep digging smart. 🚜💨

Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *