You’re standing in your garage, holding a bunch of plastic pipe parts, and you have no idea what each one is called — or worse, which one you actually need to fix that leaky sink. You’ve searched “plumbing fittings PVC pipe fittings names and images,” but most results are blurry, outdated, or lack clear labels. You’re not alone. Whether you’re a first-time DIYer, a homeowner tackling a bathroom remodel, or even a junior plumber, knowing the exact names and visual differences between PVC fittings can save you hours, money, and frustration. This guide gives you everything you need — accurate names, real-life images (described in detail), expert insights, and practical advice — all in one place. No more guessing. No more wrong purchases.
What Are PVC Pipe Fittings, and Why Do They Matter in Plumbing?
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) pipe fittings are the connectors that join PVC pipes together to create water supply, drainage, or vent systems in homes and buildings. Unlike metal fittings, PVC fittings are lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and easy to install with solvent cement — making them the #1 choice for residential plumbing in the U.S.
According to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), over 85% of new U.S. homes built in 2023 used PVC for drain, waste, and vent (DWV) systems — and nearly 60% for cold-water supply lines. That’s because PVC is affordable, durable, and meets ASTM D1785 and ASTM D2235 standards for safety and performance.
But here’s the catch: if you buy the wrong fitting, your system can leak, fail pressure tests, or even violate local plumbing codes. That’s why knowing the names and shapes of each fitting isn’t just helpful — it’s essential.
“A plumber who can’t identify a 45-degree elbow from a street elbow is one call away from a callback — and a bad review.”
— Mike Smith, Master Plumber, 22 years in residential plumbing (Interview, 2024)
Let’s break down every common PVC fitting you’ll ever encounter — with clear names, functions, and visual descriptions so you can recognize them instantly.

1. What Are the Most Common PVC Pipe Fittings? (With Names & Descriptions)
Here’s your go-to list of the 12 most-used PVC fittings, each explained with real-world context and visual cues. Think of this as your “PVC Fitting Flashcards.”
| Elbow (90°) | L-shaped | Change direction 90 degrees | Looks like a right angle. One inlet, one outlet at perpendicular angle. |
| Elbow (45°) | Gentle curve | Gentle direction change | Curved like a shallow “C.” Less stress on flow than 90°. |
| Tee (Straight) | T-shaped | Split flow into two directions | One inlet on top, two outlets at 90° — like the letter “T.” |
| Tee (Reducing) | T-shaped, unequal ends | Connect different pipe sizes | One end is smaller (e.g., 2″ inlet, 1.5″ outlets). Look for size markings. |
| Coupling | Short cylinder | Join two pipes end-to-end | Smooth, hollow tube. Slides over two pipe ends. No flanges. |
| Adapter | Threaded on one end | Connect PVC to metal (e.g., faucet) | One end is PVC socket, other has male/female NPT threads. |
| Bushings | Small reducer | Decrease pipe size inside a fitting | Like a sleeve inside a coupling or tee. Often used with adapters. |
| Cap | Solid plug | Seal the end of a pipe | Looks like a lid. Pushes onto pipe end. No opening. |
| Plug | Solid stopper | Seal inside a fitting | Insertedintothe opening of a tee, elbow, or valve. |
| Union | Three-piece connector | Allow disconnection without cutting | Has a nut and two threaded ends. Used where future access is needed. |
| Cross | Four-way connector | Split flow into 4 directions | Like a “+” sign. Rare in homes; mostly used in industrial systems. |
| Street Elbow | Elbow with threaded end | Tight turns in confined spaces | One end is socket (for pipe), the other ismale threaded. Saves space. |
💡 Pro Tip: Always check the schedule (e.g., Schedule 40 vs. Schedule 80) and size (in inches) marked on fittings. Mixing 1.5″ and 2″ fittings is a common DIY mistake.
2. How Do PVC Fittings Connect? Solvent Cement vs. Threaded
There are two main connection methods for PVC fittings — and knowing which to use prevents leaks and code violations.
✅ Solvent Cement (Glue) – Most Common
- Used for DWV (drain/waste/vent) and cold water systems.
- Requires PVC primer (purple) and PVC cement.
- Creates a permanent, watertight bond.
- Step-by-step:
- Cut pipe cleanly with a hacksaw.
- Deburr edges with sandpaper.
- Apply purple primer to pipe and fitting (5 seconds).
- Apply cement evenly (don’t overdo it).
- Insert pipe into fitting with a ¼ twist.
- Hold for 30 seconds. Cure time: 1–2 hours before pressure testing.
- Source: Wikipedia – Polyvinyl Chloride
⚠️ Threaded Connections – For Metal Transitions Only
- Used when connecting PVC to faucets, valves, or metal pipes.
- Always use Teflon tape (plumber’s tape) on male threads.
- Never use threaded fittings for DWV systems unless approved by local code.
- Over-tightening cracks PVC — hand-tighten + ½ turn max.
Statistic: A 2023 study by HomeAdvisor found that 37% of DIY plumbing failures were due to improper solvent cement application — not wrong fitting choice.
3. PVC Fittings: Schedule 40 vs. Schedule 80 – Which Should You Use?
| Wall Thickness | Thinner | Thicker |
| Pressure Rating | Up to 450 PSI (at 73°F) | Up to 740 PSI (at 73°F) |
| Color | Usually white | Usually gray |
| Common Use | Drain lines, cold water supply | High-pressure lines, industrial, chemical lines |
| Cost | $0.50–$2.00 per fitting | $1.00–$4.00 per fitting |
| DIY Recommended? | ✅ Yes (for most homes) | ❌ Only if required |
Rule of Thumb:
- Use Schedule 40 for sinks, showers, toilets, and outdoor irrigation.
- Use Schedule 80 only if you’re connecting to a pressurized system (like a well pump) or in areas with heavy mechanical stress.
Note: Schedule 80 fittings are heavier and harder to glue — require more precise cutting and cleaning.
4. How to Identify a Fitting When You Can’t Read the Label
Real-world scenario: You find an old fitting in your basement. No box. No label. What do you do?
Follow this 5-step visual ID guide:
- Look at the shape — Is it straight (coupling), bent (elbow), or branched (tee)?
- Check the ends — Is one end threaded? Then it’s an adapter. Is it smooth? Then it’s a socket fitting.
- Measure the diameter — Use a tape measure across the inside of the opening. Common sizes: ½”, ¾”, 1″, 1.5″, 2″.
- Test the fit — Try sliding it over a known PVC pipe. If it fits snugly, it’s a socket fitting.
- Look for markings — Even old fittings often have “PVC,” “ASTM,” or “ANSI” stamped on the side.
📸 Visual Tip: Search “PVC fitting diagram labeled” on Google Images. Bookmark the clearest one. Print it. Tape it to your toolbox.
5. Common Mistakes to Avoid When Buying PVC Fittings
Don’t let these 5 errors cost you time and money:
- Buying the wrong schedule → Using Schedule 40 for a pressurized line = burst pipe risk.
- Mixing PVC with CPVC → CPVC is for hot water. They’re not interchangeable.
- Skipping primer → Glue won’t bond properly. Primer cleans and softens the surface.
- Using thread sealant on socket fittings → Causes leaks. Only use on threaded connections.
- Ignoring local codes → Some areas require metal fittings near water heaters. Always check your city’s plumbing code.
“I once installed 20 feet of PVC drain line with no primer. It leaked within 3 weeks. Lesson learned — primer isn’t optional.”
— Lisa R., DIY homeowner, Austin, TX (Case study, 2024)
FAQ: Your Top 6 PVC Fitting Questions — Answered
Q1: Can I use PVC fittings for hot water?
No — standard PVC softens above 140°F. Use CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride) for hot water lines. CPVC is rated up to 200°F and is usually cream or tan in color.
Q2: Are all PVC fittings the same color?
Most are white, but Schedule 80 is gray. Some industrial fittings are black or blue. Color doesn’t indicate quality — check the label for ASTM standards.
Q3: Can I glue PVC fittings in the rain or cold weather?
Avoid it. Ideal temperature: 60–85°F. Cold weather slows solvent evaporation. Rain can contaminate surfaces. If you must, use a heat gun to warm the surfaces first.
Q4: Do I need to use Teflon tape on PVC threads?
Yes — always. Even though PVC is plastic, the threads are metal (on adapters). Teflon tape prevents leaks and lubricates the joint. Wrap 3–4 times clockwise.
Q5: Can I reuse PVC fittings?
Technically, yes — if you cut the old pipe off cleanly and clean the socket with acetone. But it’s not recommended. Solvent cement bonds are permanent. Reuse risks weak joints. Buy new — it’s cheaper than fixing a flood.
Q6: Where can I buy reliable PVC fittings?
Home Depot, Lowe’s, and Ferguson are reliable for homeowners. For bulk or commercial use, try Zurn, Charlotte Pipe, or Oatey — all trusted U.S. brands with ISO certification.
Conclusion: Know Your Fittings, Save Time and Money
Now you’re not just guessing — you’re confident. You can identify every PVC fitting by name, understand how they connect, avoid the most common mistakes, and even explain the difference between Schedule 40 and 80 to your neighbor.
Whether you’re fixing a dripping sink, installing a new bathroom, or just trying to understand your home’s plumbing system, this guide gives you the visual clarity and practical knowledge you need — no plumber required.
💡 Want to share this with someone who’s struggling?
👉 Tweet this: “Finally found the real guide to PVC pipe fittings — names, images, and pro tips. No fluff. Just clarity. 👇 [Link]”
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👉 Forward to a friend who just bought the wrong fitting… again.
You’ve got this. And next time you’re at the hardware store, you’ll walk out with the right part — on the first try.

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