Thinking about upgrading your above ground pool setup? You’re not alone. Many pool owners ask, “Should I hard plumb my above ground pool?”—especially when tired of flimsy hoses, leaks, or inefficient filtration. Hard plumbing offers durability and better water flow, but it’s not always the right choice for every situation. In this guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know to make a smart, confident decision—backed by expert insights and real-world experience.
What Does “Hard Plumbing” an Above Ground Pool Mean?
Hard plumbing refers to replacing the factory-supplied flexible hoses with rigid PVC pipes to connect your pool’s pump, filter, and other components. Unlike temporary vinyl hoses that come with most above ground pool kits, hard plumbing uses Schedule 40 PVC piping—similar to what’s used in in-ground pools or household plumbing systems.
According to the Association of Pool & Spa Professionals (APSP), proper plumbing design significantly impacts filtration efficiency, energy use, and long-term maintenance costs. While above ground pools are often seen as temporary or seasonal, hard plumbing can turn yours into a more permanent, high-performance backyard feature.
Why Do People Consider Hard Plumbing Their Above Ground Pool?
Most pool owners explore hard plumbing for one or more of these reasons:
- Better water circulation: Rigid PVC offers smoother interior walls than corrugated hoses, reducing friction and improving flow.
- Fewer leaks: Flexible hoses degrade over time due to UV exposure and pressure stress.
- Professional appearance: Hard plumbing gives your setup a cleaner, built-in look.
- Long-term cost savings: Though the upfront cost is higher, you’ll spend less on hose replacements and pump energy over time.
A 2023 study by Pool & Hot Tub Alliance (PHTA) found that properly hard-plumbed systems can reduce pump runtime by up to 15%, lowering electricity bills and extending equipment life.
Hard Plumbing vs. Factory Hoses: Pros and Cons
Let’s compare the two options in detail:
| Factor | Hard Plumbing (PVC) | Factory Hoses |
|---|---|---|
| Installation Difficulty | Moderate to advanced (requires cutting, gluing) | Very easy (tool-free connections) |
| Durability | 10–20+ years with UV protection | 1–3 years (degrades in sunlight) |
| Water Flow Efficiency | High (smooth interior) | Low (corrugated = more resistance) |
| Cost | $100–$300 for materials | Included with pool; replacements ~$30 |
| Portability | Low (permanent setup) | High (easy to disassemble/store) |
| Maintenance | Minimal once installed | Frequent checks for cracks/leaks |
💡 Pro Tip: If you live in a region with harsh winters (e.g., Minnesota or New York), hard plumbing complicates winterizing. Flexible hoses are easier to drain and remove.
When Should You Not Hard Plumb Your Above Ground Pool?
Hard plumbing isn’t ideal for everyone. Avoid it if:
- You plan to move the pool within 1–2 years.
- You fully disassemble it each winter—PVC pipes can crack if water freezes inside.
- Your pool sits on unstable ground (e.g., sand or sloped terrain), as shifting can stress rigid joints.
- You’re on a tight budget and need a quick, reversible solution.
As noted by pool contractor Mark Jennings (20+ years in Florida installations), “Hard plumbing makes sense only if you treat your above ground pool like a semi-permanent investment—not a seasonal toy.”
Step-by-Step: How to Hard Plumb Your Above Ground Pool
If you’ve decided to proceed, follow these steps carefully. Always turn off and unplug the pump before starting.
Tools & Materials Needed:
- Schedule 40 PVC pipe (1.5″ or 2″, matching your pump inlet/outlet)
- PVC primer and cement
- PVC elbows, tees, and unions (use slip-to-threaded adapters for pump/filter connections)
- Pipe cutter or hacksaw
- Measuring tape
- Teflon tape (for threaded fittings)
Installation Steps:
- Drain the pool partially (just enough to expose skimmer and return ports).
- Remove factory hoses and clean connection points.
- Dry-fit all PVC pieces before gluing—measure twice! Account for slight ground movement by adding one flexible coupling near the pump.
- Cut pipes to length, then deburr edges for smooth flow.
- Apply PVC primer, then cement, and join pieces quickly (you have ~15 seconds before it sets).
- Install union fittings near the pump so you can disconnect it easily for maintenance.
- Let cure for 24 hours before refilling and running the system.
- Pressure-test by running the pump for 10 minutes—check all joints for leaks.
⚠️ Safety Note: Never glue threaded fittings directly—always use adapters. PVC cement can weaken threads and cause cracks under pressure.
For more on PVC piping standards, refer to Wikipedia’s overview of plumbing systems.
Cost Breakdown: Is Hard Plumbing Worth the Investment?
Most DIYers spend $120–$250 on materials:
- PVC pipe (20 ft): $30–$50
- Fittings (elbows, unions, adapters): $60–$120
- Primer & cement: $10
- Optional: PVC pipe insulation or UV-resistant paint ($20–$40)
Hiring a professional adds $200–$500 in labor, but ensures code compliance and leak-free joints.
Long-term ROI: If your pump runs 8 hours/day at $0.15/kWh, a 15% efficiency gain saves ~$1.44/month—or $17/year. Over 10 years, that’s $170—nearly covering your material cost.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping unions: Makes future pump removal a nightmare.
- Gluing directly to pump/filter ports: Use threaded adapters instead.
- Ignoring ground movement: Install at least one flexible section or expansion joint.
- Using CPVC instead of PVC: CPVC is for hot water; PVC is standard for pools.
- Not sloping pipes for drainage: If you winterize, pitch pipes slightly toward drain points.
FAQ Section
Q1: Can I hard plumb an Intex or Bestway above ground pool?
Yes—but carefully. These pools use thinner walls and plastic fittings. Use reinforced adapters and avoid over-tightening. Many owners add a plywood backing behind fittings for support.
Q2: Do I need permits to hard plumb my pool?
Usually not, since above ground pools are often classified as temporary structures. However, check local building codes—some municipalities require permits for any permanent plumbing.
Q3: Will hard plumbing void my pool warranty?
Possibly. Review your manufacturer’s terms. Brands like Coleman or Summer Waves may void warranties if non-OEM parts are used. Document your work just in case.
Q4: Can I still winterize a hard-plumbed pool?
Yes, but it’s more involved. You must:
- Blow out pipes with an air compressor
- Add antifreeze (non-toxic, propylene glycol)
- Install freeze plugs or use expansion joints Many owners install drain valves at low points for easier winter prep.
Q5: What pipe size should I use?
Match your pump’s inlet/outlet size—typically 1.5 inches for pools under 15,000 gallons, 2 inches for larger setups. Bigger isn’t always better; mismatched sizes cause cavitation and pump strain.
Q6: How long does hard plumbing last?
With UV protection (paint or conduit), PVC plumbing lasts 15–25 years. Without it, sun exposure can make pipes brittle in 5–7 years.
Conclusion
So, should you hard plumb your above ground pool? If you’re committed to keeping your pool long-term, want better performance, and don’t plan to move or fully disassemble it each year—yes, it’s a smart upgrade. You’ll enjoy smoother operation, fewer leaks, and a more polished backyard aesthetic.
But if flexibility, low cost, or seasonal use is your priority, stick with the original hoses.
Found this guide helpful? Share it with fellow pool owners on Facebook, Pinterest, or Reddit! Your tip could save someone time, money, and a flooded backyard. 🏊♂️🔁
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