Owning a Puma RV brings freedom and adventure, but plumbing issues can quickly turn your dream trip into a nightmare. Whether you’re dealing with a pesky leak, preparing for winter storage, or simply want to understand your system better, knowing how to work on the plumbing on a Puma is essential for every owner. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from basic maintenance to complex repairs.
Understanding Your Puma RV Plumbing System
Before diving into repairs, it’s crucial to understand what makes your Puma’s plumbing system unique. Puma travel trailers and fifth wheels typically feature a standard RV plumbing setup with some model-specific variations.
Key Components of Puma Plumbing
Your Puma RV plumbing system consists of several critical components:
- Fresh water tank (typically 20-40 gallons depending on model)
- Water pump (12-volt demand pump)
- City water connection with pressure regulator
- Hot water heater (6 or 10-gallon capacity)
- PVC and PEX piping network
- Drain valves and low-point drains
- Faucets, shower head, and toilet
- Black and gray water tanks
According to industry standards, most modern Puma models use PEX tubing rather than traditional PVC for supply lines. This flexible piping is more resistant to freezing and easier to work with during repairs. The RV Industry Association notes that proper maintenance can extend your plumbing system’s life by 5-7 years beyond average expectations.
Essential Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Working on your Puma’s plumbing doesn’t require a professional workshop, but having the right tools makes the job significantly easier and safer.
Basic Tool Kit
| Tool | Purpose | Recommended Specification |
|---|---|---|
| Adjustable wrenches | Fitting connections | 6-inch and 10-inch |
| Pipe cutter | Cutting PEX/PVC | Ratcheting style preferred |
| Teflon tape | Sealing threads | High-density, 3+ wraps |
| Screwdrivers | Access panels | Phillips and flathead set |
| Flashlight | Visibility | LED with magnetic base |
| Bucket | Catching water | 2-gallon minimum |
| Towels | Cleanup | Microfiber recommended |
Replacement Parts to Keep On Hand
Smart Puma owners maintain a small inventory of common replacement parts:
- Shut-off valves (quarter-turn ball valves)
- PEX fittings (elbows, tees, couplings)
- Hose clamps (various sizes)
- Water pump fuse (typically 15-amp)
- Anode rod for water heater
- Shower head washers

Step-by-Step: How to Diagnose Common Plumbing Problems
Identifying the root cause is half the battle when learning how to work on the plumbing on a Puma. Here are the most frequent issues and how to spot them.
Water Leaks: Finding the Source
Water damage is the number one enemy of RVs. Follow this systematic approach:
- Dry all surfaces completely using towels
- Pressurize the system by turning on the water pump or connecting to city water
- Inspect visible connections under sinks, around the water heater, and near the fresh tank
- Check low-point drains for continuous dripping
- Monitor water usage – unexpected drops indicate hidden leaks
Pro tip: Add food coloring to your fresh water tank. If colored water appears where it shouldn’t, you’ve found your leak source.
Low Water Pressure Issues
If your faucets produce weak flow, check these common culprits:
- Clogged aerators on faucets (remove and clean monthly)
- Faulty water pump (listen for unusual noises)
- Partially closed valves throughout the system
- Mineral buildup in pipes (common in hard water areas)
- Pressure regulator malfunction at city water connection
No Hot Water Problems
When your shower runs cold, investigate:
- Verify the water heater is switched on
- Check the 120V breaker and 12V fuse
- Ensure the bypass valve is in normal position (not winterizing mode)
- Test the heating element with a multimeter
- Inspect the anode rod for excessive corrosion
Winterizing Your Puma Plumbing System
Proper winterization prevents costly freeze damage. Here’s the correct procedure:
Method 1: Using Antifreeze (Recommended)
- Drain all tanks – fresh, gray, and black water
- Open all low-point drains and leave them open
- Bypass the water heater using the three-valve bypass kit
- Connect antifreeze siphon hose to the water pump inlet
- Turn on the water pump and run pink RV antifreeze through each faucet
- Pour 1 cup of antifreeze down each drain to protect P-traps
- Flush the toilet until pink fluid appears
- Run the shower for 30 seconds per setting
Important: Use only non-toxic RV antifreeze (propylene glycol). Never use automotive antifreeze, which is poisonous.
Method 2: Compressed Air Blow-Out
This method uses less antifreeze but requires careful execution:
- Connect air compressor to city water inlet
- Set pressure to maximum 40 PSI (higher pressures damage components)
- Open fixtures one at a time, starting with highest point
- Blow until only air exits (approximately 2-3 minutes per fixture)
- Still add small amounts of antifreeze to traps
Replacing a Faulty Water Pump
The water pump is the heart of your Puma’s plumbing system. Here’s how to replace it:
Removal Process
- Disconnect 12V power at the battery or fuse panel
- Shut off water supply from the fresh tank
- Place a bucket beneath the pump location
- Loosen hose clamps on inlet and outlet lines
- Remove mounting screws (typically 4 screws)
- Disconnect electrical wires (note wire positions or take photos)
Installation Steps
- Position new pump in the same orientation
- Apply thread sealant to any threaded connections
- Secure mounting screws firmly but don’t overtighten
- Reconnect hoses with new clamps if old ones show wear
- Attach electrical connections matching previous configuration
- Restore power and test operation
Expected cost: $80-$150 for quality replacement pump Time required: 45-90 minutes for DIY installation
Fixing Leaky Faucets and Shower Heads
These minor repairs save money and prevent water waste.
Kitchen/Bathroom Faucet Repair
- Turn off water supply valves under the sink
- Remove the handle (usually hidden screw under decorative cap)
- Extract the cartridge or stem assembly
- Replace O-rings and washers (take old ones to hardware store for exact match)
- Reassemble and test
Shower Head Maintenance
Mineral deposits cause 70% of shower flow problems:
- Soak shower head in white vinegar for 2-4 hours
- Use a toothbrush to clean nozzle openings
- Replace the internal flow restrictor if damaged
- Apply plumber’s tape to threaded connection during reinstallation
Maintaining Your Fresh Water Tank
Your fresh water tank requires regular attention to prevent contamination and odors.
Sanitization Procedure (Perform Every 6 Months)
- Mix ¼ cup household bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity
- Fill tank with fresh water
- Run solution through all faucets until bleach smell appears
- Let sit for 4-12 hours (don’t exceed 12 hours)
- Drain completely
- Refill with fresh water and flush until no chlorine odor remains
Best Practices
- Use drinking-water-safe hoses (white, labeled “potable water”)
- Install an inline water filter at the city water connection
- Never leave water stagnant for more than 2 weeks
- Keep tank vent clear of debris and insects
When to Call a Professional
While many plumbing tasks are DIY-friendly, certain situations require expert assistance:
Call a certified RV technician if:
- You suspect major pipe damage behind walls
- The water heater shows signs of internal corrosion
- Multiple fixtures fail simultaneously
- You detect sewage odors (possible black tank vent issue)
- Electrical components near water show burn marks
Professional service typically costs $75-$125 per hour, but can prevent thousands in water damage repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How often should I inspect my Puma’s plumbing system?
A: Perform a visual inspection before and after each trip. Conduct a thorough system check seasonally, including pressure testing and sanitization. Annual professional inspection is recommended for units over 5 years old.
Q: Can I use regular household plumbing supplies for my Puma?
A: Some items work fine (Teflon tape, basic wrenches), but always use RV-specific components for critical parts. RV faucets, pumps, and fittings are designed for vibration resistance and space constraints that household products don’t address.
Q: What type of antifreeze should I use for winterizing?
A: Only use pink, non-toxic RV antifreeze rated to at least -50°F (-45°C). The propylene glycol formula is safe for plumbing systems and won’t harm seals or gaskets. Avoid ethanol-based or automotive antifreeze entirely.
Q: Why does my water taste strange after storage?
A: Stagnant water develops bacterial growth and absorbs flavors from plastic tanks and hoses. Always sanitize your system before first use after storage. Installing a carbon filter at the faucet provides additional taste improvement.
Q: How do I prevent my Puma’s pipes from freezing while camping in cold weather?
A: Use heated water hoses, insulate exposed pipes with foam sleeves, keep cabinet doors open to allow warm air circulation, and maintain interior temperature above 40°F (4°C). Consider installing tank heating pads for extended cold-weather stays.
Q: Is it normal for the water pump to cycle on and off?
A: Yes, demand pumps activate when you open a faucet and shut off when closed. However, if the pump cycles without any water usage, you likely have a leak or faulty check valve requiring immediate attention.
Conclusion
Mastering how to work on the plumbing on a Puma empowers you to handle routine maintenance, troubleshoot problems, and avoid expensive repair bills. By understanding your system’s components, keeping essential tools handy, and following proper procedures for tasks like winterizing and sanitizing, you’ll enjoy worry-free adventures for years to come.
Remember: prevention is always cheaper than repair. Regular inspections, prompt attention to minor issues, and proper seasonal preparation will keep your Puma’s plumbing system running smoothly.
Found this guide helpful? Share it with fellow Puma owners on Facebook, Pinterest, or your favorite RV forum. Your knowledge could save someone from a costly plumbing disaster on their next trip!
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